Seeburg SCH1-4 APU Missing

[Ron Rich]

Scott,
That 15 pin connector is an A-MP, Mate n Loc connector -- A-MP part # 480323-0 Oh the SCH models only--On the SC models it is an A-MP "loc tite" connector, for which no parts are available. Ron Rich

[scudie]

Hi Scot
Not sure if this will help any but,
I cut a piece of Perspex 1/8 thick Slightly larger than the 12 or 15 pin socket, overlay the Perspex over the socket & with a fine tip permanent marker mark where you want to place your wires, drill through the Perspex with a 2mm drill, then using some single core electric cable (I use English twin & earth cable for house mains wiring) cut a piece of wire long enough to reach from one hole to another and long enough to poke through the other side about 10mm (3/8). Once all of the desired wires are poked through there correct holes glue them into place. Once the glue has set push the plug into the socket, if the plug does not go fully home trim a little off the protruding wires. Put a small cable tie around the socket and plug to keep it in place.
This way if anyone should wish to return the machine to standard they can simply remove your plug.
Cheers Scudie

[spetersen]

Since mine is finished, I am building a second one for a friend

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[Ron Rich]

Hi Scudie,
Great idea--but he should be able to get the correct plug now-If not, I do have them, in stock !
BTW-- for our non-English speaking friends, "Perspex" is "heavy plastic" here in the USA --lol !
Ron Rich

[scudie]

I had wondered that it might have a different name I nearly called it plexi glass as that is what one of the jukebox manufacturers called the clear plastic that was used instead of glass.
Cheers Scudie

[scudie]

Good morning Scott
I guess the item on the left is the Pi ? Which version of a Pi is it?
What are the other two boards?
What is the board that they are fastened to & it's dimensions?
Cheers Scudie

[spetersen]

The board on the left is a Pi Zero with wireless, the middle board is an adjustable 5A (set for 5v) power supply, and the board on the right is an audio filter / Optocoupler board.
The dimensions of the mounting plate is 70mm x 170mm blank PC board material.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Scudie,
I think "plexi glass" was a trade marked name, for it ? Ron Rich

[scudie]

Hi Scott
Is the Pi zero a current model ? Is there a reason for using this particular model?
Did you build or buy the other two components ?
What model wall box are you going to fit this board in?
Just looked inside a Seeburg SC1 and figure that I would have to split the three components and mount maybe two in one area & the third elsewhere.
Cheers Scudie

[spetersen]

I used the pi zero, because it was inexpensive, and does the job well. The zero is current production.I mounted the base in an enclosure on the back of the Seeburg SCH1. The first enclosure was a chassis from a LCD monitor, the second was from a console Magnavox stereo preamp. The power supply was purchased on e-bay, it was about 2 dollars. The audio filter and optoisolator I built.
One thing not shown is a 5v 3wpc  stereo amp that cost about a dollar.

[scudie]

Hi Scott
I have had a look & can buy a Pi zero wireless for £10
I already have a 240 to 25vac transformer , and a small 5v PAM amp with volume control.
I have never tried building any electronic components, but do fancy a go at building an audio filter / optocoupler isolater board.
Would you mind listing the indervidual components that I would nead to purchase & instruction / diagram of how it is assembled ?
Cheers Scudie

[spetersen]

I just got home from work, I will continue this through Pm later tonight so as to not mess up the thread.

[ScotK]

Thanks for the part number Ron, I ordered one of the mating connectors earlier today from Digi-Key. That'll make things much easier to connect inside the case and make it look much more polished. I'm somewhat amazed that you would have that little piece of information at your fingertips. You really are a wealth of knowledge on these old beasties.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Scott,
You are welcome --
I rit it down and remembered where it were rit !--That's the amazing part to me ! Ron Rich

[ScotK]

So I've finally determined that there's not enough room inside the case for everything I want to fit. I was going to get creative with moving original components around to create the space I needed but even at that it would have been tight. So rather than go through all that I decided I just need to shrink my components. I could switch to a Pi Zero but I don't want to give up the extra memory and processing power of the Pi 4 as I have plans for eventually having remote control and bluetooth capabilities. The 120vAC to 5vDC converter is the most obvious thing to try to shrink so I ordered the buck converter that Scott Peterson linked to as it's much smaller than the 120vAC mains supply I was using. With everything running at full power draw it will be right at 2amps or so, so I will likely have to order a bit larger 24vAC transformer. I'd still like to keep that in the case if possible.