Rick
New Member
Posts: 1 
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Post by Rick on Jul 6, 2017 3:14:19 GMT
Hello, I am Rick, the proud new owner of a Seeburg HF100R in original condition. I am the third owner since 1954! The second owner had it in constant service in his home for 40 years. Works well but I will be recapping this summer (2017) because that seems right. Wish me luck! I also have a 3W1 wallbox and the two do not (yet) play well together. The wallbox selections seem to come through fine but the jukebox always plays "down" (e.g. C3 instead of H6, etc). I am troubleshooting that right now. Happy to be here!  |
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Post by Ron Rich on Jul 6, 2017 13:20:10 GMT
Hi Rick,
Welcome ! I hate to burst your bubble, but that is not in "original" condition. It appears to have had at least the red glass on the left replaced, and maybe, the tone arm/cartridge changed to a newer style---No problem, but if you want "original" --it ain't. (lol) Ron Rich
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Post by robnyc on Jul 7, 2017 0:37:58 GMT
Rick, if that machine's amp has not been serviced (capacitors replaced) it isn't working at its best and runs the danger of ruining both tubes and transformers.
As Ron pointed out, that is the later, stereo cart used from 1958-66. The arm was offered as a kit to allow the older mono machines to use stereo records without damaging them. In later cases the arm or entire cradle assembly was salvaged from junked machines. That cart has much lower output than the earlier mono "redhead" but if the channels are wired in parallel and decent diamond styli are used, the sound quality is better.
Regarding the wallboxes, the selection receiver and it's stepper need to be serviced. The large capacitor in the 2050 plate circuit and the small cap that filters the minus supply for the 2050 --must-- be replaced. In addition, the stepper contact wafers should be removed and cleaned to remove the tarnish that accumulates on the silver plating on the contact rivets. Do not use abrasives here and finish the job with a light coating of silicone on the contacts and a drop of light oil (10wt) on the stepper pivot bearings and ratchet dogs. Stepper and relay servicing requires a bit of skill and understanding of how these elements work. I strongly recommend getting a service manual -even if you turn the bulk of the work over to someone else.
RobNYC
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Post by Ron Rich on Jul 7, 2017 0:53:11 GMT
Rob,
I have probably rebuilt thousands of Guardian built, Seeburg steppers. 99% of the time "tarnish" on the contact plate rivets is NO problem. All of the "cleaning" that needs to be done there is to operate the stepper to max step-up several times. On the bearing surfaces, relay pressure points, and "dog legs", I use "Seeburg oil" (20 wt. ND ). The largest problem I have found that is not "people caused" is the transfer contact on the first step-up wheel. I support the upper blade with a "bracer blade" just as Guardian did, on the later Seeburg steppers (BTW--the fiber roller on that blade needs to have a very tiny drop of the oil applied--do NOT get it near the contact--You can also put a drop of the oil on the wiper contacts--works wonders ! Then operate it --I stick them on the Seeburg built "self tester" for a couple of hours--Ron Rich
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Post by robnyc on Jul 8, 2017 1:22:49 GMT
"Rob,
I have probably rebuilt thousands of Guardian built, Seeburg steppers. 99% of the time "tarnish" on the contact plate rivets is NO problem. All of the "cleaning" that needs to be done there is to operate the stepper to max step-up several times."
Ron, on long dormant steppers, especially those that aren't going to be washed, I've found that removing the wafers and actually cleaning away the gummy tarnish chemically to be the only lasting way to restore reliable contacts. In my thirty-two years of using these relics this has shown to be the only way to achieve longterm contact reliability.
"On the bearing surfaces, relay pressure points, and "dog legs", I use "Seeburg oil" (20 wt. ND )"
Again, if the unit is not going to be washed a lightweight oil will serve as a reasonably effective way to "flush" and reactivate bearings. This is common practice in reactivating long dormant or frozen bearing surfaces that may, or may not have been properly maintained. Once the bearing has been 'worked" for a while a more substantial oil should be applied.
On the transfer roller-contacts; I first de-pit the contacts lightly. Then I form the lower blade to allow the roller to follow the depression in the wheel part-way down -just enough to keep the roller indexed, but not press hard at the bottom of the depression.
Those contacts are supposed to break-make at between the first and second pulses.
Rick: There is much more involved to servicing steppers than I've gone into here. When you are ready, I suggest bringing this topic up on the actual forum.
RobNYC
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