Rowe AMI Cadette CMM1 restoration - help needed

[Ron Rich]

Eugen,
You adjusted the "no record cancel screw", not the "sit down arm screw", and you probably want to re think that adjustment-- IMHO, that screw should have been left right where someone else set it. Before using the new Shure, be sure the pivots on the tone arm and the arm itself are oiled. Also be sure tone arm spring pressure is correct for that cart/needle set-up. Ron Rich

[viperz]

Hi Ron, I ended up adjusting by about half a turn only. Now the arm rides almost a millimeter above the contact when there is a record on it. It was about a hairline off - was not touching by about probably a thickness of a piece of paper with no record.

I will only be swapping a needle for original N44-7 replacement. So there should be no need to readjust tracking weight, but I'll obviously double-check it. Right now I have it riding at 3.5g - checked with digital scale. I did oil arm pivots previously. It moves freely and doesn't bind anywhere.

I also made new automix sensor wire if I will ever have 33.3 7" records (most likely never).

I removed dents, sanded and spray painted bottom and top covers. That's my weakest thing since I really don't like doing a ton of sanding. They look all right.
I will need to get some 1/4" weather-stripping since 3/8" that I got won't fit in all spaces.

I also absolutely hate how noisy the transformer is for the fluorescent light bulb. I really don't know what to do with it for now.

[jukenorman]

Eugen, if the fluorescent ballast (transformer) is mechanically sound (ie not rusty or likely to fall apart), give it a sharp tap with a small hammer with it powered. That quite often works and you have nothing to lose trying it! Also the ballasts often sit on resilient mounts which have hardened with age so no longer provide acoustic isolation - new soft rubber mounts maybe?
Norman.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Norman, and Eugen,
I once told a guy to do the above, but I may have forgotten to tell him to use a "small" hammer ( that was "his story")--- He took a sledge hammer to it--knocked it through the side of the cabinet ! I don't give that advise anymore --- Ron Rich

[viperz]

Hi Norman, it is a mechanical vibration from inside the transformer - if I squeeze it, the vibration almost goes away. I am honestly, as Ron said, at a point where I will take a sledge hammer to it - it is the noisiest part of the jukebox by a mile. It originally sat directly on the back-top metal cover with no rubber isolators. I have it sitting on a thick piece of cloth (cover is off for repair and painting) and it still vibrates like crazy. If I put it directly on the jukebox enclosure, the whole jukebox starts mechanically buzzing. I started researching going LEDs or with electronic ballast. Electronic ballast operates at like 30-40KHz compared to this ballast transformer running at 60Hz (hence audible noise from inside). The problem is that these are not really easily available bulbs - 18" and 26", so finding them locally in LED form, or electronic transformer for them may be a challenge.

And I will go and tap it with a mallet - maybe plates inside will resettle and stop vibrating, I have nothing to lose for sure.


On unrelated note, I ordered N44-7 stylus for my cartridge, should be here in a few days. Based on specs, it tracks at 1.5-3g compared to original blue N44 stylus that tracks at 3-4g. Maybe it will give me better sound...

[Ron Rich]

Hi Eugen,

You can always order those lamps from the suppliers listed in our FAQ's section--

Does ACE hardware operate in Canada-- they have the lamps here in the US -- no problem -- I think Home Depot also has them-- Ron Rich

[viperz]

Hi Ron, our ACE Hardware and Home Depot are a joke compared to American counterparts. They generally stock up only on standard sizes. I just checked ACE website - nothing there. Same with local Home Depot. I would strongly prefer not to order over the border - who knows how long it will take nowadays and it is glass after all... Will have to go to a specialty lighting store I guess.

[viperz]

I was looking at this electronic ballast - www.bulbscanada.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3717

Electrically it should work, but I am afraid that it may have magnetic field around it high enough to affect phono sound.

[viperz]

So I put a couple quarters to play 4 sides, I pick a song and the record start playing. So I punch in combination for 2nd song, pin gets moved and waiting for next song.
How many songs can I theoretically punch into "memory"? Is it only limited by max. money?

[Ron Rich]

How many pins can you move to the selected side ? Ron Rich

[viperz]

I honestly haven't checked, but I suspect as many as the money counter would allow - at that point the selector buttons would get disabled. I guess, I just found out what the jukeboxes are all about - I don't have to go and punch codes after every record lol.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Eugen,
Didja READ our FAQ's section -- there's a post there titled "How a jukebox works"--Ron Rich

[jukenorman]

Hi Eugen, I would be gobsmacked if an electronic ballast had greater magnetic field than a traditional old fashioned ballast - that's nothing more than a great big inductor!
Norman.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Norman, Eugen,
I might just be "gobsmacked" too, if I really knew what that work meant, in (American) English ? My Grandmother used it too, but I think in a slightly different way-- she had a "warning tone" about her voice when she said, "I'm going to gobsmack you (up against the head--I think) "--- I never questioned her further ! Ron Rich

[viperz]

It is not about the size of the magnet, but how you use it (sorry, had to say that lol). Electronic ballasts usually operate at 30-40KHz range, so outside of our hearing range, which is good. The bad part is that harmonics of 40KHz operation are 30, 20, 10, 5KHz, etc, which can cause massive audible distortion. I guess, the only way to figure out is to spend $35 CDN and go buy one of those electronic ballasts... The lighting store that carries them is only 10-minute drive from me.