1015 selector wheel

[vinylguy]

Hi
When I press the latch, it doesn't release the pin as quickly as the other pins do. (The others "pop" quickly.)

[vinylguy]

Yes Ron it has the free play unit installed but I plan on using the coin grinder once everything is working properly.

[Startgroove]

So that is a good confirmation that it is the pin itself and probably not the coil.  By releasing the pin manually and having a sluggish action of the pin, it eliminates the coil as being suspect.  You can partially dismantle the selector assembly (leaving it attached to the mechanism) by removing the front Plate, Bracket And Bushing Aseembly (let the switch assembly and front plate just hang), then take out the snap washer from the back side of the pin (keep track of the spring) and pull the pin out the front.  Check to see if it is corroded, dirty or otherwise compromised and correct the issue as necessary.  Also check the inside of the Selector Rod Holder to be sure it is smooth and clean.  Check the corresponding holes of the Guide Plate and the Wobble Plate too and be sure they are not compromised.  If it still is sluggish after reassembly, then we'll need to go over the symptoms and cures again.  Cheers, Russie

[vinylguy]

Spring on problem pin seemed weak so I replaced it and continued to work pin in out and it seems to pop like others now. Could not get the wobble and guide plates removed, seen it is held on back side with a clip? Put it back together and machine started playing from #18 and played through all 24 selections in descending order, and continued playing and playing til we shut off machine. Making some progress it seems like to me.

[Startgroove]

It sounds like the Over-Ride switch is off adjustment. With the Wobble Plate out all the way (toward the front) the mechanism should not run. The Special Screw and the first Elastic Stop Nut are the two items involve with the adjustment. With the machine unplugged, and no selections made, adjust the Stop Nut toward the head of the Screw while listening carefully for a "click". When it clicks, stop the adjustment. Press any edge of the Wobble Plate toward the rear of the machine and listen for the click again. It should click when the wobble plate is pushed almost half way through its' travel. When you release the Wobble Plate (no pins triggered), you should hear the click again. Those are the closing and opening points of the Over Ride Switch. If that does not stop the mechanism from free running, check the Over-Ride Switch and wiring for a shorted condition. Hopefully this will resolve the issues. Cheers, Russie

[vinylguy]

Hi
Did what you said in your last post and that part is working like it should. Plan to run through each number and see what happens. Using coin grinder to get the credits needed instead of free play device. Is there a way to have it stop playing after credits are used, I'm sure I read that somewhere that after credits are used it stops and lights turn off??

[Startgroove]

Once the credits have been subtracted fully, a switch (45117) opens in the Moto Drive Unit, disconnecting power from the selection system. Credits are subtracted by the Cancel Solenoid, which is fused. Each tooth on the Cancel Wheel represents a credit. If the Cancel Solenoid is not working properly, the credits won't be subtracted, or if the Micro Switch linkage is improperly adjusted, the system will act like it still has credits.
There are a lot of things that can go wrong in the credit/subtract system. More symptoms would help nail down the problem. BTW, the mechanism will shut down after the last record selected has returned to its rest position. At that same time, the lights would shut down only if the Switch (46630) on the Junction Box Assembly is in the correct position. Cheers, Russie.

[vinylguy]

Oct 18, 2020 18:32:00 GMT Startgroove said:

Once the credits have been subtracted fully, a switch (45117) opens in the Moto Drive Unit, disconnecting power from the selection system. Credits are subtracted by the Cancel Solenoid, which is fused. Each tooth on the Cancel Wheel represents a credit. If the Cancel Solenoid is not working properly, the credits won't be subtracted, or if the Micro Switch linkage is improperly adjusted, the system will act like it still has credits.
There are a lot of things that can go wrong in the credit/subtract system. More symptoms would help nail down the problem. BTW, the mechanism will shut down after the last record selected has returned to its rest position. At that same time, the lights would shut down only if the Switch (46630) on the Junction Box Assembly is in the correct position. Cheers, Russie.

When I deposit a nickel I get one credit, so I assume that is correct? What would be the correct position of the switch (46630) om the junction box for the lights to shut down? Really appreciate all your help on my questions.

[vinylguy]

As of yesterday all the adjustments you have suggested are working as they should, so I want to thank you so much for the advice and patience.

[Startgroove]

You're welcome, glad to be of help. Cheers, Russie

[vinylguy]

Having issues again with number 5 selection. It won't work like the others,so I think that coil needs replacing. While I wait for shipment is there any tips on replacing a coil?

Thanks

[Startgroove]

The incidence of selector coils going bad is extremely rare. If a coil is weak, it will show some burning of the insulation wrap. That should be confirmed before removing it. Also, compare the suspect coils' DC resistance to the other coils. It should be nearly identical. The coil is soldered in, so if it has to be removed, be careful not to burn the posts that the wires connect to, when de-soldering.
If the coil has to come out, I think it is best to remove the selector coil assembly completely from the mechanism, to work on it. You can access the back side easier that way. Take pictures upon dis-assembly so you know how everything goes back together.
Cheers, Russie