Wurlitzer 1900 Centennial restoration

[viperz]

Ron, sometimes there is just too much "patina" LOL

These are the casters: www.princessauto.com/en/thermoplastic-swivel-stem-casters/product/PA1000001584?skuId=8039901 .

I need to go and check if my Wurlitzer 3010 uses the same caster system, as that cabinet is super wobbly - one caster must be completely broken (I haven't taken mech out of 3010, so cannot really confirm)

[Ron Rich]

Eugen,
Be xtreemly careful with that type of castor--It will damage a "hardwood floor" ! (don't axk !) Ron Rich

[viperz]

Ron, I'd think that original hard castors would damage the floors. These "thermoplastic" ones have a little flexibility. Either way, I do appreciate the advice. I have concrete floor in the shop, and carpet on top of hardwood in the theater room.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Eugen,
Yep-- I thunked the same as you --until I pushed a brand new set of 4 wheels across a brand new "hardwood" floor-- Walking back to the door, I had a few new thoughts about the "thermoplastic" wheels ! You should be OK on carpet -- Fortunately, The millionaire that owned the house was a nice guy--he saw it at the same time, as I did -- and said, "don't worry, I'll have it fixed before my wife sees it !"--and he did-- Ron Rich

[viperz]

Definitely something to consider. Thank you, Ron...

Regarding side finish, I am having second (and third) thoughts... I keep reading about the finish on these sides, and the only two real options are either completely strip and refinish, or strip and replace the veneer. Neither of these options is rather attractive to me. I love how the guts are all working smooth and nice, but the cabinet is just something I don't know if I should even attempt. Next week is all going to be cold with snow tomorrow and day after tomorrow, so I have more time to contemplate.

This is what the bad side looks like:
photos.app.goo.gl/iMo24afKoZqf6QpW8


Here are the rollers installed: 

photos.app.goo.gl/zQpXviHgQ5Uohcc96

[jukenorman]

Hi Eugen,
I think that side is quite saveable! First of all, clean it - I would hesitate to use anything water based but you could rub it down with a natural oil like olive oil to get any dirt off. Then get yourself an old fashioned tin of boot polish (light tan probably?) and apply liberally a few times. The only issues are any gouges like the one at the top (difficult to tell how deep they are) but you might consider filling them even if it was only with a colour matched paint?

Norman.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Guyz,
Upon seeing Norman's post above, a bell rang out in the night fog within my head. I thought that side was not too bad when I looked at the photo yesterday, but not being a "cabinet guy", I (for once !) shut-up. I had a great uncle, who invented and made a little product called "Treewax"-- in fact, it was made in Toronto (and may still be-- company was sold 25 +years ago). If you can't find tan boot polish, I think Indian Sand Treewax, would work well ! Ron Rich

[viperz]

Good morning... thank you both for the advice. I washed both sides with damp sponge soaked in soapy water. Will look for those products and will report back.

[viperz]

I keep looking at options for replacement rubber U-channel for the new plexiglass pilasters. Reused old stone-hard channels on the top plexiglass valance, should have no issues, as it is held well with metal plate. I saw some available online, but nothing really locally. Found car door edge trim, it is definitely thinner than old U-channel, but it wraps around the 4-mm plexiglass with no issues. It also glues itself to the far edge of the pilaster.

On the negative front, I do not have one inner pilaster extrusion. New pair is 96 euros plus shipping from Germany (Stamann). No one seems to have one for sale.

[viperz]

Had a 9-hour marathon today putting the cabinet back together.

Installed the dome, keyboard, coin register, all front pieces including grill, lighting... Still have the amp, main mech, card holder and front pilasters.

1) Cannot figure out where one small thumb screw goes... I put it in the same bag as four thumb screws that hold large cross-bar from the back and two screws for the amplifier top shield... It is definitely smaller than thumb screws that hold that cross-bar.

2) What holds the colour inserts in the pilasters? The new ones I got are flat, I guess I will insert them into pilasters, but is there some kind of tape or adhesive needed to hold them there?

3) One of the dome locks is very very tight. I tried putting some oil into it with no luck. Is it fixable, or should I be ordering a new lock?


Looks like I will be ordering a new inner pilaster extrusion, as I cannot find anyone selling one...

Thank you.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Eugen,
I can't answer any of the above except for the lock one---
You should not "oil" locks-- Powered graphite is the preferred lube for them.
Ron Rich

[viperz]

Hi Ron, I have graphite lube in a spray can that I use for garage door bearings and door locks in the house... Where and how would I lube this lock? The key goes in and out fine - it's the cylinder that is really tight to move. Thank you!


Here is a photo of my orphan screw (on the left): photos.app.goo.gl/KMThJnxhMXCQst8H7


This is as far as I got today: photos.app.goo.gl/Ajh8hGj3SBhhAdsv8

[Ron Rich]

Hi Eugen,
Get the "oil" out of it -- use some safety solvent-- and spray the graphite into it in both the key and barrel area.
On the screw-- I have seen it before-- where it goes-- I draw a blank- save it till you find "a hole"---
Cabinet looks nice ! Ron Rich

[jukenorman]

The screw looks the type that would be used to hold the select lamp or its housing in place? Yes the cabinet is looking grand!

Norman.

[Ron Rich]

Guyz,
I agree-- that is the type screw they used for the purpose Norman mentioned ! Ron Rich