Wurlitzer 1900 Centennial restoration

[viperz]

Ron, A and B side does not have the metal frame behind it. The main frame only extends to C-D side.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Eugen,
Thanks for that info-- I had one which drove me insane, many years ago-- I took the keyboard to a friend's house about 80 miles from here to see if I could figure out what was happening-- Just as soon as I removed the keyboard from his phono, I saw the fish paper, and figured it out-- Ron Rich

[viperz]

Yeah, now that I have it mostly together, I can see that top contacts of C and D board are uncomfortably close to the metal frame just above them.
Fun fact: only C-D buttons have a diffuser behind them. Installing one behind A-B would require cutting a corner off it, so they apparently never installed one.

I will add more tape because tape does not go far enough, and one of D contacts is just under bare metal.

[viperz]

Ron, one question for you... I want to know where the safety switch and saw your post on this... Maybe it is too late in the day, but I am looking at the service manual diagram for the record player, and still do not see it. I see a spring for "override and trip switch", but I do not see any mention of safety switch. Thank you.
(http://lists.netlojix.com/pipermail/jukebox-list/2009-September/108174.html)

I think  I found the microswitch itself - is that the one that gets triggered when glass "fan" in the front goes slightly sideways? Still can't see it in the manual... Thank you.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Eugen,
Yep-- you found the switch-- I believe it's shown near the power switch on the schematics-- It shuts off all power except for the fluorescent lamps- Ron Rich

[viperz]

Really appreciate all the help, Ron.

The switch on the selector junction box assembly - am I correct to assume that it should be in off position for normal operation? ON position would be for testing by manually enabling the selector solenoid in the junction box?

[Ron Rich]

Eugen,
Don't know what that switch is for offhand-- seee the schematic- sorry Ron Rich

[viperz]

Ron, another question on something that I most likely should have done already... I cleaned and lubed everything, but... yesterday I was cleaning the wiring, and someone replaced the plug on the main motor horribly (or should I say quickly?). I rebuilt the wiring connections, etc etc. I did not remove and service the main motor. It looks very easy to remove, even with everything already reinstalled back - just two big bolts to the main shelf. Should I do that - remove and take apart the motor - inspect and clean bearings, etc? I can see that the motor is fed off the 28VDC circuit, so it is a DC motor if it matters... Thank you.

Well, after some really difficult thinking, the motor is on my bench waiting to be serviced... 

[Ron Rich]

Hi Eugen,
I think I would-- you're doing everything else ?? Ron Rich

[viperz]

Yeah, just removed the motor. Will take it apart this evening, clean it up, etc. Not sure how to clean or if I should take apart the pinion gearbox attached to it, will figure it out as I go.

(edit) it is really cool to see that original designers really knew which part need to come off quickly for servicing lol

[Ron Rich]

Eugen,
I don't think the gave a rat's a-- about that-- they cared about how long it took to assemble the phono ! LOL ! Ron Rich

[viperz]

I took the motor apart. Will clean out all graphite powder from the inside.

Then there is a bearing on the axle, and a little ball on the other side of the axle. What is the preferred lube on these bearings? Something heavy?

I also opened metal cover on the pinion gearbox. But there is another dielectric cover underneath, so I cannot see the gears. There is a small opening along the circumference of that cover. Shoild I put some lube onto the worm gear through that opening?

Thank you

[Ron Rich]

Hi Eugen,
Depending on what type bearing it is-- if ball type, it probably has lube on it already-- if so, you MUST either flush out ALL of the old lube, or find something that is compatable, or leave it alone-- If a bronze type--20 wt. ND oil is the best- On the small ball on the end-- a drop of graphite based grease in the ball retainer and against the ball stop. Ron Rich

[viperz]

Thank you, Ron. It was bearing with no visible balls. And it was not easy to remove it off the axle... I cleaned around it, put some heavier oil in hopes it would seep into tiny holes, and left it alone..
For the single ball, I did what you suggested.
Also put some grease onto worm gear in the pinion assembly. Reassembled everything. It rotates well by hand for now. Put it back.

Connected all components of jukebox together along with external 8-ohm speaker. Had to keep a jumper in speaker receptacle on the amp to get the power.

Will double check everything tomorrow and will turn it on hoping for no magic smoke.

[viperz]

I found another thread on this forum which recommends the following needle pressure gage:
www.pkneuses.com/www.pkneuses.com/spri.htm

I believe for 12-gram tracking, I would have to buy N-30? And no way to do it with conventional digital scale?