Wurlitzer carnegie cd-50 jukebox not working

[Ron Rich]

Hi Barry,
That's "newer" then any I have ever had the "pleasure" of working on ! Look around on the guide-- I don't recall exactly how to do it, but you can use one of the "pricing jumpers" to actuate various items directly, on the mech-- see if you can find this in the guide, and try these things one at a time, to see if any problems show up. If none do, I would check the power supply ( in the amp--I think ?) first, then do a recap of both the amp and S&CC. Ron Rich

[barrychilds]

Dec 7th. 5.30pm French time.
Thanks Ron, I found that none of the selector buttons worked when tested with a multimeter, so I removed the whole unit and cable. The carbon had failed so I stuck pieces of aluminium foil on the membrane and have replaced the unit. The selection process now works but the cd pressure arm did not come down. It was stuck. OK fixed with oil and brute force. Selection of disc now working well. Laser is not moving. I don't know how free the laser arm should feel, but it feels like it is sticking. It does not come back when flicked. I can't see a laser beam either. The cd motor is on all the time the machine is on. None of the buttons on the cd controller do anything. I shall have a look at it tomorrow.

[barrychilds]

My biggest problem at the moment is, why is the CD turntable (not the carousel) constantly powered. I have removed the CD control box, but I cannot find a fault. I'm not sure where it is getting the supply from. Any help from anybody would be greatly appreciated. Barry

[Ron Rich]

Hi Barry,
Perhaps it's "solar powered" ? Which model CD player, are you speaking of ? Ron Rich

[barrychilds]

Hi Ron, It's a Phillips CDM-3

[Ron Rich]

Barry,
That being the case, I would attempt to find someone who says he can "fix it"-- Do consider that the CDM-3 came out in the 80's and no parts have been made for them since probably the 90's-- The Phillips supplied board for these was famous for burning up the edge connectors-- re-soldering them and/or replacing them is almost a "must"-- Ron Rich

[barrychilds]

OK, Ron, I don't think I will find an electronics expert around here. I live in rural France. I bought it for a bit of fun and to learn, so I'll carry on. Thanks so much for the help and advise. Barry.

[Ron Rich]

Barry,
In that case, I would advise you to contact Hildegard, in Germany (see our FAQ's for her address), and see if, by chance they still have an update kit for that phono. Ron Rich

[barrychilds]

I put a working replacement CDM-3 in the duke box, but I still have a fault. The laser moves to the outside of the disc carrier as soon as the jukebox is turned on, and stays there. Does anyone know why?

[Ron Rich]

Hi Barry,
If a "working" player, you have a problem in the mech control box. If it uses the Phillips built DAC, copper colored, board, they famously had poor solder connections-- open it and re-flow any areas you can see that are suspect. Also, they were prone to connector problems, with the grey colored connectors. At this point in time, you may need to solder on the connecting wires to any burned connector post you see--- HTH Ron Rich

[barrychilds]

Thank you very much, Ron. I will get to work on it tomorrow and get back with results. Cheers, Barry

[barrychilds]

Another setback. My soldering iron bit is too big for the printed circuit board, so I have ordered a new soldering kit from Amazon which will take a while to get here. I cannot find a circuit diagram anywhere for the Philips dac board, so will be working blind. Ron is absolutely correct about the soldered joints, many appear cracked. I haven't found any that are completely broken, but it is hard to see clearly and so it is entirely possible. Barry

[Ron Rich]

Hi Barry,
I don't think that I could ever get a schematic for that board, either ? Check the pins on the power plug-- they tended to "burn"--- Ron Rich

[barrychilds]

I done some research and the DAc is used in quite a few cd players. I found the circuit diagram for a Marantz cd65. Although I'm no techno by any means, it will help me to follow the voltages etc. I can't wait for my new soldering iron so I can get down to it. The problem seams to arise from the power plug, as you said, so I will make that my starting point. Thanks Ron. Barry

[Ron Rich]

hi Barry,
Watch out-- the boards may "look" the same, but may have been modified by/for the specific company they were sold to. I know the Phillips produced boards were different from the Rowe, to the NSM's-- Ron Rich