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Post by prime on May 11, 2022 11:01:38 GMT
Every thing on the read out arm looks correct, Ive been thinking the fact that power is always energizing the coil or solenoid, when the arm stops the vibration makes it move. If i can get this to stop happening maybe adjustment will work. I will look at sequence ten but please forgive me if i dont quite understand, i am not even getting past sequence 2, wouldn't the buttons release long before this. How would i be able to select more than one song if i had to wait untill record was returning. I just wish to add, most of the time when i select a record, the arm stops and pushes the pin, this makes the vibration worse, if i then turn off the unit the buttons release, when i start up again the basket moves, the gripper gets that record and it places on turntable, end of song all goes back to resting state.
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Post by prime on May 11, 2022 12:15:34 GMT
Hi Ron and Norman, i would like to ask a question, after the selection buttons are pressed, and the write in is engaged, what switch should move to release the buttons?
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Post by Ron Rich on May 11, 2022 12:38:59 GMT
Hi Guyz,
I would never use Deoxit for either the key board, nor make-break relay contacts -- see the stickies-- If the ADR is not getting enough of a pulse to pull down ( check to make sure the wheel still turns ?) I'd check that contact, on k2, and the cap involved, that generates the "fat pulse"-- If it is pulling down enough to move the wheel-- check the contacts on the ADR. Use a good ANALOG meter, or build the checker mentioned in the stickies, on contacts. As for the WI problem-- I can't envision any correlation between the RO arm/wipers, and the WI arm/wipers ? Is something "loose" in the WI arm "chain" ? Ron Rich
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Post by Ron Rich on May 11, 2022 12:45:48 GMT
Pete,
Your question about the release of the push buttons was answered on the previous page by Norman=- probably the last post of yours, and that one. "past in the mail"-- Ron Rich
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Post by prime on May 11, 2022 13:38:43 GMT
I was only asking about the buttons because i am use to them releasing as soon as you engage them. I noticed the same vibration at the write in relay when the arm stops and everything vibrates. The last time i tried it there was a new sound and the unit stopped, i found the fuse on the amp had blown, i replaced with slo blo and unit works again but credit unit makes a noise when adding credits but does not add any or at least the solonoid does not engage.
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Post by Ron Rich on May 11, 2022 13:44:10 GMT
Hi Pete
"--Amp fuse--" That should not affect anything but the amp ? What size/type was the blown one-- what didja use to replace it ? Did you check the DC power supply that pulls the relays-- the "fat pulse" relay contact Norman mentioned above ? The caps in the credit unit-- sounds like it's a power supply problem now ? Ron Rich
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Post by jukenorman on May 11, 2022 13:58:59 GMT
Hi Pete, The write-in and read-out sequences are both numbered, are you confusing WI seq 10 with RO seq 10? In the simplest of terms - you push the buttons, they latch via the latch solenoid, the WI motor operates to locate the selection, it stops, the selection is made, the buttons release. We are bogged down in WI seq 10. Do I recall that you started this thread by saying your machine was on free play but you didn't know how? Did you ever resolve that? Part of WI seq 10 involves subtracting a credit, this is done via the accumulator reset solenoid K2. Attached to K2 are two switches, one of which operates the ADR relay. If your credit unit has been improperly butchered for free play, might this be the source of your problem?
Edit - no it was another thread that had the free play issue - however, maybe K2 and its switches might be worthy of investigation?
Norman. |
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Post by prime on May 11, 2022 14:00:00 GMT
I replaced the fuse with a 2amp slo blo which is listed on the amp. When it went i was watching the WI relay and the stop relay moved then the fuse. I see there are no caps in the credit unit and all resistors measure properly. I will need to see if the correct power is getting to the relay. Now that i understand what the ADR is i will check it once the credit works again , I hate to ask this where is the K2, i watched the ADR after doing a selection, the contacts to the subtract coil moved but nothing at the ADR. pete PS got the credit unit going again.
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Post by prime on May 11, 2022 16:09:23 GMT
I am really close i think, if the write in stops and happens to engage the pin , i can touch the ADR and it releases buttons and all works forward as it should, so i think once i find the power issue that will be resolved. Problem is the i can never get closer than 1/8 of an inch from where i need to be to have the hammer hit the pin properly, i can adjust 1 pin back but never any closer to the proper pin. Any thoughts on what else i can do to get this last bit.
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Post by jukenorman on May 11, 2022 16:48:06 GMT
Ok Pete, if the ADR isn't operating you need to check the accumulator reset solenoid K2 switches. Is K2 removing a credit OK, are the associated switches adjusted correctly and are they clean?
I'm still having difficulty understanding how you can't get write-in arm adjustment. The shaft on the basket has a groove (or flat?) for the read-out arm bolt. There was a problem with that not being properly located on a previous thread quite recently. Are you sure that the read-out arm is properly located?
Norman.
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Post by Ron Rich on May 11, 2022 17:14:04 GMT
Hi Norman,
I don't understand-- what does the position of the RO arm, have to do with the position of the WI adjustment ? My thinking (once again--going from my great, but not too long, memory)is that they are totally independent of each other ?. If a pin is "pushed" the basket starts, and locates whichever pin is pushed--be it the correct one or not ? Ron Rich
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Post by prime on May 11, 2022 17:44:09 GMT
Yes Ron and Norman i have come to the same conclusion, ive looked at the shaft and Alan screws but i feel maybe i could affect the basket but even if i could move the wheel with the write in it would still stop at the same pin. I am thinking if i get the power issue repaired maybe the hammer with extra power will do its job. I watched the switches and the coils that subtracts credits, the switches close and the wheel moves one tooth, just no power going to the ADR. If that switch feeds it then i am at a loss. If its not that switch where does the ADR get its power. I am studying the schematics you sent and will try to find out how much power should go to ADR and to the Write in coil.
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Post by jukenorman on May 11, 2022 18:15:41 GMT
Hi Ron,
On the face of it, the adjustments of WI and RO arms are independent - but there's only a limited amount of adjustment available in both cases. If you imagine that the RO arm is incorrectly bolted somehow, then its adjustment has to be taken further than normal for correct alignment. This now has a knock on effect on the WI - it would be fine if there was unlimited adjustment on both sides but there's not. I'm not sure whether this is Pete's problem but I'm struggling to come up with come up with anything else!
Norman.
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Post by jukenorman on May 11, 2022 18:24:36 GMT
Pete, it has to be that switch K2-2 for the ADR relay - there's nothing else in the circuit. One side of the ADR relay coil goes directly to -28VDC and the K2 contact switches the ground to the other side of the coil. Otherwise, you have a bad connection or the ADR coil is open circuit.
Norman.
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Post by Ron Rich on May 11, 2022 20:33:48 GMT
Hi Norman,
I'm still confuzzed-- my memory says the WI arm connects to nothing other the the gear drive of the WI motor-- so the position of anything should not affect it ? That motor/gear box, is designed to "dead stop" when the arm detects the hot rivet on the PC board's ring and rivet section. I have seen them "jump over" one or two spaces because of a dry clutch which does not dis-engage fast as it should. Ron Rich
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