64b1t
New Member
Posts: 48
|
Post by 64b1t on Aug 23, 2022 1:05:41 GMT
Maybe. I swapped the tubes and it stopped rejecting altogether. I ordered a couple new 2050s and a new cam switch block. I think those contacts may be too worn down on contact O. They seem very flat. photos.app.goo.gl/zGoKLbL1wPcYsqrp7
|
|
|
Post by jukeboxmarty on Aug 23, 2022 2:24:44 GMT
The contacts faces seem pretty thin, but I've seen worse.
Hopefully we will all still be here after your parts arrive!
|
|
64b1t
New Member
Posts: 48
|
Post by 64b1t on Aug 25, 2022 19:19:00 GMT
Bad 2050 tube is the winner.
Replacing it caused selections and rejections to work just fine (and now I have a good spare to boot)
Only remaining significant issue seems to be sparking contacts, which don't seem *as* sparky as before.
New cam switch contact block should be in this weekend.
|
|
|
Post by jukeboxmarty on Aug 25, 2022 19:41:34 GMT
Good news Liam! Thanks for reporting back!
|
|
64b1t
New Member
Posts: 48
|
Post by 64b1t on Aug 26, 2022 18:51:37 GMT
The new cam switch block came in.
I took a good look at the one that came in and the one that was on the jukebox, and thought maybe the O contacts were slightly misaligned, seemed like the new ones were tighter together, so I tried to ever so slightly bend the O contacts to be tighter together, and it did seem to reduce the sparking significantly.
Is this an 'acceptable' amount of sparking, or should I keep going with replacement, or maybe additional tuning?
|
|
|
Post by jukeboxmarty on Aug 26, 2022 19:44:58 GMT
Yes, looks better. I would still try to clean those points up using a point file. Just make sure the contacts are making with enough force after you are done.
Also... Check the top set of contacts. they should be open during scan.
|
|
64b1t
New Member
Posts: 48
|
Post by 64b1t on Aug 26, 2022 21:10:37 GMT
Fixed the top set, and filed the O set a little more, spark is still there, but a little better, mating with plenty of force.
Now my next quest: The amp is pretty quiet. I found a PDF of the Q series manual, and it says for low volume:
1) Defective tube -> I've replaced all tubes on the Amplifier 2) Volume not turned up or shorted -> It is turned up to maximum, and I can't identify a short, it outputs variable resistance as turned, which is what I should expect. What values should I be reading here/how can I definitively check this? 3) Armature Assemblies not seated -> I replaced the needles today, so I don't think it's that.
|
|
|
Post by jukeboxmarty on Aug 26, 2022 23:21:48 GMT
If it has an MRA5-L6 amplifier it's out of an HF100R.
Does it have it's 6SK7 tube installed? If it does try pulling it out to see if the volume returns anywhere near normal.
|
|
64b1t
New Member
Posts: 48
|
Post by 64b1t on Aug 26, 2022 23:49:14 GMT
I keep getting the Q and R confused, because as I understand, my selector is out of a Q apparently.
In any case, almost no volume with the AVC tubes installed, low volume with them removed.
|
|
|
Post by jukeboxmarty on Aug 27, 2022 1:00:30 GMT
As long as you are getting proper input from the cartridge all the way down to the amp, it seems to be an amp issue.
There are millions (an exaggeration) of issues within the amp that can cause a lack of volume.
Has the amp been recapped? I'd start there if it hasn't.
I'd try cleaning the rotary switches as well.
|
|
64b1t
New Member
Posts: 48
|
Post by 64b1t on Aug 27, 2022 3:16:02 GMT
Definitely an amp issue. I even changed the RCA connector. It has been recapped, recently it looks like, but not by me. I don't see anything wrong with the caps, seem to be all modern electrolytics and it's clean, however someone soldered the AVC switch into place, so it can't move. I did clean all the position switches, but no change that I can detect. There are some cables that don't seem to go anywhere, not sure what's up with that. I'm guessing those would be volume control cables that would have gone to the Seeburg R's cabinet door volume control. photos.app.goo.gl/6dCmfG2uvf8XQf5v7
|
|
|
Post by jukeboxmarty on Aug 27, 2022 3:32:29 GMT
The loose wires are for the internal but missing volume control pot. I'm assuming you have some sort of remote volume control plugged into J1. The only advise I have at this point is to check the DC voltages at each stage. Most voltages are shown on the MRA5-L6 schematic. If that doesn't turn up anything it's probably time to scope out the AC signals. Good luck with your mission!
|
|
64b1t
New Member
Posts: 48
|
Post by 64b1t on Sept 4, 2022 20:10:51 GMT
I ended up recapping it with a kit from JBFN and now it makes no sound whatsoever. Such fun...
|
|
64b1t
New Member
Posts: 48
|
Post by 64b1t on Sept 5, 2022 20:09:02 GMT
|
|
|
Post by jukeboxmarty on Sept 5, 2022 21:53:17 GMT
Well, you know the drill. Double check your work and compare everything to the schematic.
|
|