muggs
New Member
Posts: 4
|
Post by muggs on Jul 12, 2023 14:59:29 GMT
Hell All, Purchased a Seeburg SC-1 wall unit and I'm looking to "run it" with an Arduino. Bought this as a gift to my brother-in-law who has a very nice arcade in his basement. I have purchased the service manual from Jukebox Arcade as suggested by someone in another forum. I am fairly well acquainted with the Arduino, but have never worked on a wallbox before, so... before I ask too many stupid questions, can anyone suggest info to read/view from Forum posts, YouTube videos or the like, to get "up to speed" on these? TIA, Muggs
|
|
|
|
Post by jukenorman on Jul 12, 2023 16:06:41 GMT
Hi Muggs,
The manual is going to tell you what you need to know, I think! You could also look at the sticky on the forum "how a jukebox works" for background info. Are we to assume you haven't yet received your manual? CD Adapter sell a music player kit that would interface to your wallbox - not that I want to spoil your fun with Arduino!
Norman.
|
|
en
New Member
Posts: 17
|
Post by en on Jul 13, 2023 16:28:56 GMT
i recently got an SC1 working with stepper in my lpc480. this forum was very helpful.
I have nothing to say about the arduino aspect, but for the SC1, I recommend cleaning all contacts carefully especially the contact plates.
This will likely require some disassembly so proceed carefully and keep track of how it works with the springs and dogs.
On mine, the keys were gummed up to the point of not being able to press them at all. Same for the credit assembly. A thorough cleaning and using D-oxit released both.
I'm sure I'm not using correct terminology for everything, but main idea is to carefully clean everything.
Another note, the stepper wheels should be completely free to rotate fully. If they are binding at all, this must be fixed.
On mine, I had the older style white plastic wheels which are known to crack at the hub and bind up.
Once I figured that out, I sourced the 'newer' black plastic wheels and swapped them in, problem solved.
|
|
muggs
New Member
Posts: 4
|
Post by muggs on Jul 22, 2023 17:49:40 GMT
Thank you Norman & en,
Sorry, I've been busy with work.
Anyway, I did some minor cleaning then first used a Variac to apply power. I have since purchased a 125V-25V transformer and it works well with both, but with caveats.
When I trip the the quarter coin switch nothing happens; solenoid does not pull in. Contacts are clean.
If, however, I push the arm that the solenoid would pull in, it all works.
There is some wiring mayhem going on. Next thing is to reattach the wires correctly.
I have some images and a video, but I don't know how to attach images. Can someone direct me to a "how to" please?
TIA,
Muggs
|
|
|
|
Post by jukenorman on Jul 23, 2023 10:15:26 GMT
I'm not particularly familiar with these but it looks like power for the solenoid (via coin switch) comes from the income totaliser in the jukebox (or hideaway unit), typically LPC1. Postimages is what I use for posting pictures.
Norman.
|
|
muggs
New Member
Posts: 4
|
Post by muggs on Jul 24, 2023 16:02:18 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by jukenorman on Jul 25, 2023 8:57:52 GMT
Hi Muggs,
Whwn wires are cut and rejoined like that, it's usually done to alter the pricing. I took another look at the income totaliser - 25VAC supplied from the pricing unit is routed through a counter solenoid, the coin switch and credit add solenoid in the wallbox so that the two solenoids operate in series. You could maybe route 25VAC to the coin switch via a resistor or maybe better via a filament lamp to operate your solenoid. What you have to consider is that if a coin sticks at the coin switch or it gets jammed closed, your solenoid will quickly be toast. I should also have said that there is a thermal switch in the 25VAC supply in the income totaliser.
Norman.
|
|
en
New Member
Posts: 17
|
Post by en on Jul 29, 2023 22:14:01 GMT
hi,
I don't have the links handy but I found a reference on the internet on how to freeplay the SC1 and it works great.
At the juke itself you still have to put a coin in or add credits to select.
If I recall, there's a way to jump power at the coin levers or something so you can skip the connection to the totalizer. This will then make the coin credit system work in the SC1. I decided not to do that because my SC1 is sitting on a sideboard cabinet and getting it open to empty to coin box is a major pain.
If I find the links, I'll post again.
(As always, my notes/advice is totally at your own risk)
|
|
en
New Member
Posts: 17
|
Post by en on Jul 29, 2023 22:27:53 GMT
|
|
muggs
New Member
Posts: 4
|
Post by muggs on Aug 5, 2023 19:43:22 GMT
EN, Thank you. I got it in free play right now and that will certainly do for now.
Now to start getting the pulses and figuring that whole thing out!
Thanks again,
Muggs
|
|
|
|
Post by spetersen on Sept 6, 2023 18:41:43 GMT
I have done the conversion with a raspberry pi, and it works well, I can help later, I'm at work. Some info here bottom of the page.
|
|
|
|
Post by spetersen on Sept 7, 2023 17:27:49 GMT
EN, Thank you. I got it in free play right now and that will certainly do for now. Now to start getting the pulses and figuring that whole thing out! Thanks again, Muggs To start with, the pulses are just grounding out the signal wire, so if you provide 5v or 3.3v with a little current to reduce noise pickup, you will have a better time decoding it. I have to lookup the order, but there is a series of letter and number pulses, separated by a gap
|
|
