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Post by paradisecs on May 25, 2018 22:37:28 GMT
I have a 311125-D board from an SPS-160 DCC4. The board has two areas of bad burn marks where someone put the wrong ceramic caps and diodes on. The burning is on the front side and the traces look fine. The silkscreen printing on the back of the board is non existent; I think someone tried to clean the board and washed the printing off. In the SHP Amp Book and it has component locator diagrams for the various boards. Does something like this exist for the DCC or am I stuck working off of the schematics? I'd rather not have to desolder every diode and resistor to figure out what number they are to even know if they have the correct readings on them.
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Post by Ron Rich on May 27, 2018 18:54:27 GMT
I was thinkin' I saw one once--but I sure can't find it now--sorry-- Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Oct 3, 2018 2:56:03 GMT
I know it was a while ago I inquired about this but I finally got around to solving the problem. Here is one I created. Stephen ![]()  |
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 3, 2018 13:00:30 GMT
Stephen,
Very cool--and as far as I can see correct for a dash D unit--
Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Oct 3, 2018 14:50:31 GMT
I had to brush up on my Photoshop skills but I'm happy with it. If nothing else this project burned the components to my memory now. One thing I noticed, and maybe you can clarify for me, was the board I modeled from was a -D board. It didn't have holes for C3133 though. Instead that was soldered to the leads of R3190 and the Collector of Q3120. Was this a factory job using an old board? I thought by the -D boards that the C3133 had it's own solder points. My other -Ds I've worked on all did at least.
I may go ahead and do the other boards in the DCC as well, just to complete the project. Now that I have the process down it won't take too long.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 3, 2018 16:27:01 GMT
Stephen,
I thought that C133 was the difference between C and D boards ? Hey wadda I no ?
Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Oct 3, 2018 16:33:32 GMT
I thought so to, it confused me at first.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 3, 2018 19:35:48 GMT
Hi Stephen,
I don't try to remember stuff like that--I just rebuild all boards up to the latest practical version made.--In this case it's the "-E".
Ron Rich
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