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Post by paradisecs on Jun 8, 2018 16:12:50 GMT
I have an SCC7 that shorted out because of a bad fuse-holder job prior to coming to me. CR01-03 all blew as well as CR08.
According to Tony's Console Era Guide
CR08-09 600v .4 A
CR00-03 100v 1 A
I can't find a direct replacement for CR08 (1N689) but one of the cross-reference shows ECG116. CR0-3 shows 1N4002 and ECG116 as viable replacements. So is it safe to use the 1N4002 as a replacement for the 600V diodes? That seems like a big change in ability to me. If it is safe I'll use it but I'd like to understand the differences better.
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Post by Ron Rich on Jun 8, 2018 17:20:27 GMT
Steve,
What are the Seeburg Part #'s ? Ron Rich
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Post by robnyc on Jun 8, 2018 19:39:38 GMT
I have used used 1N4005 or higher for this type of circuit. There are both constant high voltages in the W-I & R-O section and large kickbacks from coils in the low voltage section.
I don't know where ECG got the idea that subbing 100v devices for 600v is a good idea. I shows that one should always double-check the spec's.
The only "special" diodes are the 27V & 150v Zener's
RobNYC
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Post by paradisecs on Jun 8, 2018 22:17:35 GMT
CR08-09 309372 1N689
CR00-03 309476 1N4002
The other thing I noticed was #309374 says 100 1A same as 309476. Why then would it be different? I've also noticed the ECG116 seems to be listed as acceptable for many of the diodes even though the ratings are different.
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Post by paradisecs on Jun 8, 2018 22:40:28 GMT
On a side note, how the hell do you get the old solder on some of these to melt? I haven't had any trouble on the pcbs but the ones on the various terminal boards I can't seem to desolder. I've even cranked my iron up to 900 and still had no luck. I ended up using an angle-cutter to cut away and then just soldering on top of the glob that was there. I hate leaving residual pieces in place.
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Post by Ron Rich on Jun 8, 2018 22:40:31 GMT
Your crosses are OK-- 374 and 476-- same item-different manufacturer. Ron Rich
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Post by Ron Rich on Jun 8, 2018 22:41:39 GMT
A higher wattage iron is needed ! Ron Rich
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Post by robnyc on Jun 9, 2018 4:28:49 GMT
On a side note, how the hell do you get the old solder on some of these to melt? There are several things different in removing soldered items from a terminal vs. printed board. Here are some thoughts: 1) I make sure the item to be reflowed is clean. Dirt impedes heat transfer. I normally wash all equipment before reworking it. In the case of jukebox parts, filth is the norm. 2) As Ron mentioned a lot of heat is required on solder posts. I use an old Weller 8200 gun which runs at 100-140 w. 3) Often adding a bit of fresh solder to the area to be flowed will actually get things moving. The new solder helps transfer heat from the iron's tip to the work. RobNYC |
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Post by Ron Rich on Jun 9, 2018 11:47:07 GMT
Hi Rob,
Good tips--one more--flux-- I have a CAN of "NO-Kokerode" {SP ? brand}, flux ( yep-in a metal, not plastic can) that I purchased over 50 years ago, sitting next to my iron-just need a dab of the stuff, once in awhile.
I have that "Weller" too--Every time I use it the lights through the house dim---lol-- Ron Rich
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