End of play switch V4-19

[phillg]

Hi guys,

While I've been working away on the model-B, the Wurlitzer has been going strong until it started rejecting every record as soon as the needle touched it. I've worked out it's the reject switch on the rear of the unit - the spring inside it has failed as well as the switch. It appears that getting an original is going to be harder than I expected (they're generally only available used and with the whole unit in tow, which I don't need).

Then it occurred to me that it's a simple microswitch (albeit a light weight activated one) but then I discovered that the mounting holes are pretty unusual and the original manufacturer doesn't make them any longer. Then I wondered whether there might be a better solution - how about mounting a reed switch inside the unit with a small magnet at the end of the tonearm? Seems like a nice solution that doesn't require any physical contact, although I'm guessing the tonearm would need to be rebalanced with the weight of the magnet attached to it.

Thoughts? Is this a good idea, or is it the brain of a madman coming up with an over-engineered solution?

Phill

[Ron Rich]

Phill,
Don't know where this post has been hiding--just saw it now-- Take a plastic handled medium sized screwdriver handle and
"thump" that switch, several times--usually works !! (or if you are McGiver, remove it from the phono, open it up and burnish it--that will work !!) Ron Rich

[phillg]

Damn! If only I knew before I ordered a replacement switch... oh well, at least I have a spare if it fails entirely.

I used a pin hammer to tap the metal frame in front of the switch and it "sprang" back to life (bad pun, but they make me laugh). I will warn anyone who does the same - I really mean *tap* the metal and specifically with a small pin hammer, do not hit it with a standard hammer-- if you can get a screwdriver handle into the space, do that instead.

Phill

[Ron Rich]

Phill,
My question iz---where didja find a replacement switch ?? Ron Rich

[phillg]

I ordered a microswitch from a component company. It's not a direct replacement -- they don't exist so the holes are in the wrong place and it would need to be mounted upside down to work, but it's all doable. If I ever have to change the switch, I'll document it if it works.

If it doesn't work then I'd look at the reed switch approach instead.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Phill,
Did you check with all of the parts suppliers listed in our FAQ's section-- I would bet one, or more, of the suppliers in Europe has a direct replacement--screw holes correct and all !! Ron Rich

[phillg]

You know, I did try... I could find used parts but I have one of those and it's broken so I wanted to put something new in it so I know it would work for years.