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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 30, 2018 2:34:58 GMT
Kevin, What type/quality meter are you using?--389 is OK !! Like I said before--brass has to be correct--compare it to the mechanism Trip/Detent coil--Same idea--only Detent coil is larger-- (remove top --backside bracket, on Detent coil only-L@ k inside--) Did you ever get the rotary credit wheel to "lock" ? Ron Rich |
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Post by vipertblck on Oct 30, 2018 10:50:34 GMT
ron,
meter is a blue point DMSC683. the rotary credit switch DOES lock, yes. on my BL box I can go in there and it rotates without moving the plunger in a tad; box works fine though and presents no problems. gonna grab my manual again and look for the mechanism trip/detent coil and dig in to see what you're referring to. hopefully sometime this week i'll get out to the box; I only have the SPU1 at home with me.
kevin
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 30, 2018 12:01:13 GMT
Kevin,
Remember that stuff was written pre-digital meters-- an Analog type meter would read that coil as 400 ohms----
If the wheel on the CCU, or SPU does not lock, you will chew it up-shortly--fix the lock on it ! You can also look at therear plunger stop on the CCU--the SPU should be identical with the brass installed-- Ron Rich
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Post by vipertblck on Oct 30, 2018 12:49:31 GMT
ron
good point about the analog meters. my wheel DOES lock on the SPU1 from the seeburg 201, my wheel does NOT lock and I can freely rotate it when unit is in it's rest position on my CCU from my seeburg BL, guess I should take a look at my BL box soon. anyway, good idea comparing the rear bracket from the older CCU to the SPU1, great example of the brass piece i'm missing!
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Post by vipertblck on Oct 30, 2018 15:28:26 GMT
ron,
quick question I thought of. could I take the SPU1 from the 201 box, and plug it into my BL box to verify the problem is still present. or vise versa, take my BL CCU and plug it into the 201 box to see if it works. basically this would just eliminate things and ensure the credit unit is in fact the culprit.
\
kevin
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Post by vipertblck on Oct 30, 2018 23:09:30 GMT
dug into the back of my BL box and looked at the cancel solenoid on the CCU, yup, I see the brass plug you're referring to now that's missing on my SPU1. if I made something like this brass piece, is there a measurement as to how long it should be on the inside (part the plunger will contact)?
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 31, 2018 0:18:17 GMT
No -- you just gotta look at the sample --and get it write--er, um, rite---no--CORRECT !
Ron Rich
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Post by vipertblck on Oct 31, 2018 1:33:03 GMT
ron,
correct me if im wrong but I think I understand this correctly. the "length" of the brass plug on the inside of the rear bracket shouldn't matter because the plunger will hit the brass plug first, right? this of course is set when the cancel solenoid position is set for the pawl over travel on the credit wheel gear; which once that travel is set, the FRONT bracket is moved so that it's snugged up against the solenoid.
second, could I take the SPU1 and plug it into my BL box? the plugs are the same, but that would in fact prove the problem is the SPU1 as it should start machine gunning in my BL box, wouldn't it? not sure if I can mix/match like that though
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 31, 2018 2:45:46 GMT
Kevin,
Yes--ain't you never heard ---Size matters !
I dono--check the schematics ?
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Post by vipertblck on Oct 31, 2018 11:22:18 GMT
will be out by the box tonight and wanna try it out to see if cleaning/adjusting contacts did anything; also check that cap. i'd like to get something made up at work today for the rear solenoid bracket brass piece; any idea how much it should protrude on the inside toward the plunger? I've taken a pic of the inside of the one off my bl trip solenoid(under the mechanism) for reference, look like it basically protrudes in maybe 1/16-1/8 and then is "smashed" on the inner and outer end to keep it in place..
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 31, 2018 13:02:40 GMT
The plunger is what "smashed it", on the inside--
Ron Rich
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Post by vipertblck on Nov 2, 2018 17:23:09 GMT
wanted to give an update, been tied up past few days. made a brass piece for the rear cancel solenoid bracket, and replaced the timing relay capacitor. the other one looked relatively new so I left it, for now. waiting to get back out to the box and try it out...
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Post by vipertblck on Nov 4, 2018 22:39:11 GMT
welp, no luck. new timing relay capacitor installed and the brass plug installed; same results. getting close to throwing this whole assembly away and purchasing Vern's freeplay adapter!!!
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Post by Ron Rich on Nov 4, 2018 23:32:31 GMT
Kevin,
That'll work (Vern's unit)IF, the problem is in the SPU--but not if it's in the ES ! At what point does it start machine gunning ?
Ron Rich
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Post by vipertblck on Nov 4, 2018 23:49:40 GMT
ron,
spoke with vern and he walked me through some continuity checks to eliminate the ES as the problem-all proved well with the ES. the machine gunning starts the instant the power switch is flipped on. I can not even plug in the ES plug or the coin plug to the SPU1, and have just the SPU1 plugged into the selection receiver, and it will still machine gun. if I push and hold a letter or number on the ES though, it stops machine gunning.
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