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Post by Ron Rich on Jan 3, 2019 16:04:42 GMT
Pat,
Easy--kids will now need to take blo-guns, to school !
I would GUESS from what you have written, the coils are good-- Might try to find the "WurliTzer (information ?) list"-- there may be someone there that can help further ?? If you find them, post their contact info in our FAQ's please, and the "cure" you find here ! Ron Rich
Thanks, Ron Rich
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Post by restorationnut on Jan 3, 2019 16:09:28 GMT
I'll see what I can find. Thanks
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Post by jukenorman on Jan 3, 2019 19:20:55 GMT
Hi Pat, You've checked the coils, you should be able to now trace the wiring to the coils back through the plug/sockets towards the button bank. Pick a letter and follow it back, you have the manual and the drawings - I think that is your logical next step. Hopefully finding the fault on one letter will point you in the right direction for the others.
Norman.
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Post by restorationnut on Jan 3, 2019 22:10:53 GMT
SOLVED - There is one adjustment on the latch mechanism that is not clear. It has to do with the letter latch pawl. I had previously adjusted it twice, but when I did it a third time I did it logically. Readjusted, and all works! It's fairly detailed, so if anyone has a similar problem, they can contact me and I can try and explain.
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Post by Ron Rich on Jan 3, 2019 22:15:47 GMT
Pat, Thanks for the "follow up"-- but I am totally confused at this point in time-- is this an electrical switch contact--does it close when one pushes a letter button, and, if so, How's come, it only failed on some letters  ? Ron Rich |
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Post by restorationnut on Jan 4, 2019 11:38:14 GMT
It's mechanical. The letter latch lever is adjusted with a letter key held down. However, it makes a difference WHICH letter you hold down. Apparently, the latch lever moves different distances depending on which letter you hold down. I'm talking distances of less than .005". But this makes a difference because the adjustment locks a pawl onto a trip lever. The pawl needs to stay locked until after you push a number key. On certain letters, it would not stay locked long enough. Just like when you press the cancel button on this model, you can't just press it and release, you have to hold it down a second or 2 to allow everything else to latch or energize.
All I did was test the adjustment on EACH letter until I was sure the pawl would stay locked.
My record count is over 80,000, and I don't know if it's been reset or not. I can see wear indicators in several areas, so I believe that just wear on certain keys made it necessary to adjust each letter. When you push a letter, it moves a long connecting link, which in turn moves the latch lever. That means a small amount of wear anywhere along the path is amplified by the distance.
I found the cause of the problem by holding down a letter key while I pushed a number key, instead of just pressing a letter key and releasing. When I did this, it worked every time on every letter.
I hope that explanation isn't too confusing.
Even though this problem took several days to solve, and disassembling and reassembling everything, it sure helped me learn more about how everything operates. Now I'm going to go out and search for some straws to collect and sell on ebay.
Pat
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Post by Ron Rich on Jan 4, 2019 14:38:31 GMT
Hi Pat,
Thanks for the explanation ! That switch is part of the "anti-cheat circuit". Now I understand what was happening---Before you "adjusted" that latch lever, did you "clean & lubricate" it ? A drop or two on all of the pivots, and a TAD of graphite grease on the lever "catches", on keyboards, is usually the proper procedure when "rebuilding" them. Ron Rich
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Post by restorationnut on Jan 4, 2019 16:07:20 GMT
No, I cleaned them with contact cleaner, but I neglected to re-oil all pivot points and lightly lube the pawl and stops. Thanks for reminding me.
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Post by Ron Rich on Jan 4, 2019 16:53:38 GMT
Pat
"--contact cleaner --", you may want to read the sticky posted above in the FAQ's section on cleaning contacts--
Ron Rich
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Post by restorationnut on Jan 4, 2019 17:43:33 GMT
I had read that. Don't use it on the switches, just non-electrical points. I do use it to clean pots, though.
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Post by Ron Rich on Jan 4, 2019 17:52:10 GMT
Pat,
"---non-electrical points--"
I don't think that's what I wrote--sure not what I meant ! "Pots" are "sliding type contacts"--Deoxit-5 is what I would use there.
Ron Rich
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Post by restorationnut on Jan 4, 2019 23:05:40 GMT
Sorry. I am referring to pots on antique radios. Some have a carbon track that can supposedly dissolve with the use of Deoxit. I believe it. If you take them apart, the carbon will just crumble when you touch it. And the contact cleaner I use is not suppose to leave any residue.
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Post by Ron Rich on Jan 4, 2019 23:36:53 GMT
Hi Pat,
I didn't know Deoxit, would dissolve carbon-- I have seen many a carbon pot with cracked/dissolving carbon--way before I knew about Deoxit--
Thanks for the info !! Ron Rich
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? Ron Rich