R-91 magazine motor buzz

[wdln]

Just to put a period at the end of this sentence, I finished up final assembly by locking the lid’s key inside the jukebox.

<sigh>

[amiman66]

Hi Dave the joys of jukebox ownership, the speaker foam rotting is a common problem, it was much better on the earlier paper cones that went to the edge of the speaker, the only issue we get with these are with rodents otherwise they last for ever.

You might have to check the home/index trimmers, the meter reading adjustments are in your manual.
Pity about the keys.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Ron Rich]

Dave,
No problem on the keys--check our FAQ's section-- keys ( if someone did not change the locks) are available. If the lock was changed, a GOOD locksmith can generate a key by the number stamped on the lock ! Ron Rich

[wdln]

Yeah tell me about it! When I bought this thing (a steal at $50) it was locked with no key included in the sale, and I had to order one. It’s the original lock. So I just ordered a second one after confirming my RI-3 key didn’t work in the lock. In the meantime, the ‘box is working well... I’d just like to get inside it, clear the old error codes, and install tags for the new records!

[amiman66]

Hi Dave,

Is there a number on the lock? The standard key is normally a C094A, generally the kays used on Rowe Ami were C404A, C256A, C33A,C092A & C094A.

Your RI-3 should have been a C256A.

If the lock is not a Rowe Ami, you could try drilling the barrel of the lock out to try and get to the lever, or if you are very careful you can use wedges between the door and frame to see the sprung lock catches which can then be activated by a screwdriver.


Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[wdln]

So after a few months of normal operation, the buzz is back. I ordered a couple more triacs, but do you think the photocouplers are the real issue, causing the triac to leak and eventually fail?

[Ron Rich]

Dave,
That would be my guess, or, the Triac's you are using are "too small" ?? I think I would change both. Ron Rich

[wdln]

Thanks Ron... Do you have a suggestion on a good alternate to try? The one I put in a few months ago is the NTE 5638:

www.nteinc.com/specs/5600to5699/pdf/nte5638.pdf

Seems like 400V/8A with an 80A peak surge capability for the load side of the triac would be plenty to accommodate the basket motor with room to spare.

[Ron Rich]

Dave,
I dono--I'd go with the photo couplers like Alan suggested--That size triac, should be OK for that 25 volt AC motor ? Ron Rich

[amiman66]

Hi wdin,

I m glad to hear that it was just the triac that was faulty, the re-foamng of the speaker surrounds is a good option and keeps the correct speakers still in the jukebox.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[wdln]

Feb 4, 2019 13:56:51 GMT amiman66 said:

Usually when there is buzzing on the transfer or carousel motors the fault can be the two photocouplers Z200 & Z201, you here the buzz and if you watch the transfer motor you will see it moving very slowly in the case of carousel motor if you hold the spagwheel linkage this might also turn very slowly.

Questions for amiman66, Ron, and any other jukebox brainiacs out there:

The only manual I have is the field service manual and parts catalog, which lists the optical switch on the basket as an assembly (part #40803701) and not the two individual sensors that are on it.  Do you know the specs or part numbers for Z200 and Z201?

To provide some more info, the buzzing now reappears within a few minutes of turning it on (when cold).  Rotating the basket in service mode still works even with the buzz, and I get the proper flashing on the index and home LED's on the mechanism control board, so the optical switches are working.  It also plays the right records selected, with or without the buzz.  Would mis-adjustment of the index and home pots on the mechanism control board cause the sensor to leak like that?  I have run through the adjustment procedure detailed in the field service manual and it seems correct.

Also, and this may be the key: when I replaced the triac the first time, I did not have any heat sink compound on hand, so I left what was already on there from the old triac in place on the heatsink.  It was not completely dried out but there wasn't much of it either.  Do you think the triac wasn't able to cool properly, and just overheated and burned itself out again over the last few months?  Since it worked just fine for so long without the buzz/leaking, I'm leaning towards this being the issue.  I have another replacement triac (I ordered two this time, actually) and some good heat sink compound.  Maybe just replace it again, with the proper heat sink technique this time, and see what happens?

I would be grateful for any advice.

[Ron Rich]

Dave,
I doubt the heat sink was a problem--that triac actually is not energized long enough to get too warm--
On the opto reader--what color is the plug going to the MCC ? Ron Rich

[wdln]

P203, the optical switch connector at the mechanism control board, has a 5 pin orangey-red connector in it. Kinda faded on the outside but darker on the part not normally exposed. Only the upper four of the pins have wires.

[wdln]

I fired it up just now and the motor started buzzing right away. Within a minute or so, the triac heat sink on the mechanism control board was warm to the touch, so it is dissipating heat. And the heat does get generated pretty quickly.

[Ron Rich]

Dave,
OK--You have the correct opto's on it--If the triac is getting hot, I don't see the correlation to the opto's that generate the index and home positions ? but I'm going from memory as I don't have a schematic handy ? Ron Rich.