Ayuda WURLITZER 3400 STATESMAN

[Ron Rich]

Hola,
Solo Englisia, por favor, non hablemos Espanoal Ron Rich

[andumo80]

Hi. Sorry for my previous post, in Spanish.

I have a WURLITZER 3400 STATESMAN, when I bought it it looked good, but when I examined it it was very bad, very bad.

He had deficiency of vital components, breaks, other burns, bad use, etc.

After a lot of waiting, I managed to gather all the components and I am very close to work, but I can not do it. When I select a disc, I look for it. It reproduces it perfectly, when it finishes it takes it to the basket and selects the same disc, and this always.

And he verified: LATCH PINS, when it reaches them, releases the perfect magnetic coils, when it reaches its place. The SIDE-1 and SIDE-2 Selenoids cancel it (go down) perfectly.

* The only way to get it out of this Loop is to pass the switch (scan-load.run) to LOAD and pick up the perfect disk (I quickly go back to RUN) and start scanning to find a new selection and a new disk. When you find, play normally.

One of the missing components was the Selector: (129432) - SCAN-LOAD-RUN with the included connector: (131173), request a new one to weld it and the connector (according to the service manual that I have) and I think it could be that something is wrong ...

Please, ¿Could someone send me an HD photograph of the solder side of the Switch where I can see the color codes, and where they should be soldered?

Also, I would need another photograph of the Connector (in the Control Unit) that is out of the colors, please, or send me a drawing of where to weld the color codes and the switch.

I would be very grateful.


Thanks again and regards


** I need information, how to differentiate the transformer from this 120v model. of another 220v. How this machine is currently connected to 220v, responds well, does not heat up, is perfect (but I see some motors that are 115v and are tested with the calibrator and even connecting them to 220v they feed well to 115v (I do not see that there is a reducer of voltage) ...?

[Ron Rich]

Hi Andumo,
No problem on the Spanish--just no one here, seems to speak it --- Please show your location in your profile, as stated in the "user introduction" section here.
OK-- this is my opinion--only--
When the latch pins are hammered down--watch the stopping switch actuator-- Does the actuator return FULLY,to it's "resting position" ? If so, you will need to check the switch itself--did it open ? These switches were "poor", and often times fail to do so--if a switch is bad, you will probably need to fabricate a new mount for another type switch, as I don't believe the original switch is available. If the switch is good, look at the schematic for a "Hold" contact on the relay it operates. I don't think the scan-load switch is a problem here ?
I would imagine that the main transformer reduces the 220 to 110 vac for the operation--once again, the schematic in your service/parts manual,
should note that. Ron Rich

[andumo80]

Hi, Ron Rich.
Please what is the: stop switch actuator ... and where is this component located ...? and "Retention" in the relay (relay number) that operates which is please ...?
I am very focused on the Manual Service Book, but there are names of components that do not fit well, since this machine was in very bad condition, anyway I thank you very much for your dedication to me and I would thank you for more information to solve this problem .
The Transformer part I am already seeing it and if it is 220v but I think that in the Secondary it has a little more tension that would be adequate.
Cordially
Antonio

[Ron Rich]

Hi Antonio,
The "stop switches" are the two which operate to stop the basket at the correct (selected, with the raised pin), spot--one for each side of the record. The relay I am thinking of, is the one which activates when (either) stop switch encounters a raised pin.
As for the secondary voltage -- I would think it should be around 120 +/- 5 volts ?
What country are you in ? --Please show that in your profile. Ron Rich

[andumo80]

Hello again and thanks for replying.

The stop switches work well, when I select a disc from the buttons the corresponding "Pin" is perfectly raised and the basket searches for the selected disc. When arrives at the "Pin", it stops at the right place, and proceeds to remove the disc from the basket normally.

When it finishes reproducing it, deposits the disc in the basket, the Cancellation Selenoid (1-2) returns to Cancel the "Pin" of the same place and immediately returns to select the same disc and reproduces it again, being the "Pin" Canceled from the Previous disk, and repeat this always.

I tried to select a disc normally, and the "Pin" was activated and the disc played normally, but before I finished playing it manually, I canceled the "Pin", and when the disc finished, it returned to the basket, and it again took the same disc from the basket, without proceeding to search for a new selection. In addition, the cancellation Selenoid was activated to cancel the "pin".

Clarification:
When proceeding to enter the disk in the basket, before removing the same disk, again the Selenoid (1 or 2) returns to lower the Pin, it is as if the same pin was selected again, which is not uploaded.
If you need me to send a photo, or send me a photo to better understand the problem,

Thanks for everything and greetings from Spain!

[Ron Rich]

Hi Antonio,

Yes-- I understand the problem, as I have seen it many times --part of the problem is that you are not understanding the sequence of events that should take place. What should happen is: As the selected record is removed from the basket, the actuator for the stopping switch action that just occurred, should be held in the closed position, by the raised pin. The cancel solenoid should ( at this time), re-set that pin (BEFORE record is played), which should allow the switch actuator to resume it's normal ( open switch) position. What is happening on your phono is EITHER of the following-- The stop switch ACTUATOR, is sticking on the pin, the switch is faulty (staying closed, electrically, or mechanically, after being freed. or the relay that the switch activates is staying closed (due to the hold contact not releasing it--or {very rare on the plug in relay type} the armature is magnetized.

Do you know how to electrically check that switch ? If not, see our FAQ's section above.  Ron Rich

[andumo80]

Thank you Ron Rich, sorry but in the translation from English to Spanish there are words that do not make sense and I do not understand well.
You are kind and you inform me how to Verify ... How to Consult the Section please ...?
Do you know how to electrically check that switch? If not, check our FAQ section above.
best regards

[Ron Rich]

Hi Antonio,
No problem-- I am struggling to understand the translations, also--
How to consult the FAQ's ( Frequently Asked Questions). Simple, go to the home page and scroll down--You will see the FAQ's.
There are a number of questions/answers, there, including "how to check a switch".
Hope that helps ! Ron Rich

[andumo80]

Good morning Ron Rich.
In my Service Manual does not contain these questions answers, but I have knowledge in electronics and I have reviewed the Side List Interructores (1 and 2) with a Meter, and they are fine (cut and open perfect).
Revised Zener Diodes (Rf: 128449) are OK.
Revised Condenser (Rf: 76201-17) are OK.
Revised Contact Board Assembly (Rf: 133432) are OK.
What else can I look or where to test ...?
Thanks for everything Ron.
Antonio

[Ron Rich]

Hi Antonio,
What/ are you checking the switches with ? They must be checked as outlined in our FAQs section above. If they are still OK, go to the schematic-- they operate something (a relay, I assume ), that runs the motor. Has that motor been properly oiled--is the clutch/brake working correctly ? Ron Rich

[andumo80]

Hi again, Ron Rich.

- I tested manually the switches with a laboratory meter (they open and close well- ok).

- You told me that "check as described in our FAQ section", sorry but I do not have this information in my Service Manual ... And I can´t find in the blog that information about my machine, can you send me that information...?

- You are so kind to tell me "What engine ...?"

- In your opinion, what relay could be wrong...?
* The engines (all) are checked, and are clean and greased.
* Clutch / brake is fine.
* The 7 relays are new (6 White and 1 Red).

The failure is hard, I hope to be lucky and find the reason.

Thanks for your help, thanks.

** It is possible that when I installed the new switch (129432) - SCAN-LOAD-RUN, I put some badly welded cable in its place.


Best regards.

[andumo80]

Current state of interructor welds of my machine.

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[Ron Rich]

Hi Antonio,
The "FAQs" are here, on this forum-- look for "Frequently Asked Questions" on the home page.
I would guess the gripper arm motor ("engine") may be "over running" it stopping point and re gripping the record after it sets it down ? Watch the brake operate--It MUST stop that motor, INSTANTLY, when it drops down.
Yes--anything's "possible, but I don't think you made any errors in the soldering of that switch as everything but the gripper motor seams OK ?
Ron Rich









asked

[andumo80]

Hello Ron Rich, how are you ...
I'm reviewing everything again in detail to see if there is something forgotten or wrong, I will inform you of the progress for information of all.
If I have a problem that I can not solve because the Service Manual is not in the electrical diagram as well as Frequently Asked Questions in your forum.
This machine was missing: Switch, Magazine Lock + Locking Arm and Link Assembly + Solenoid, Magazine Lock. Acquired a complete game and the Switch, Magazine Lock I receive it with 3 cables, of which 2 of them (yellow + green) put them in place but the "brown" does not know where it has to connect, you know where please.
*attach picture.
regards
antonio

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