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Post by paradisecs on Mar 19, 2019 18:25:40 GMT
I rebuilt the DCC-1 and SHP-1 in this SPS160. Bench tested both and they were good. Testing on a working STD160 and both the DCC and the AMP function correctly. Mounted them to the SPS160 where they came from and blew the breaker.
Removed J3111 and powered on and the system does not trip the breaker. Put the dummy plug in and system still does not trip the breaker. Removed PRVC and cable assembly and cleaned it then plugged it back in after disconnection the reject switch wires and powered on and still blew the breaker.
I don't see an obvious short in the PRVC but the problem only exists with it plugged in. And the and and controller work fine in another unit. Any thoughts would could be causing the breaker to trip? It's not blowing any fuses, just the GFI i'm plugged in to in the garage.
Stephen
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Post by paradisecs on Mar 19, 2019 18:34:34 GMT
I also swapped out the PRVC and it still blows the breaker at power on.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Mar 19, 2019 18:36:42 GMT
Stephen,
A "breaker", and the "GFI" are two different an-nee-mules ! Do you have a PRVC, or just a VC on that cable ? If a PRVC, dis-connect it--still popping the GFI ? If yes--remove the 2 amp fuse inside the amp and try it -- Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Mar 19, 2019 19:00:52 GMT
Sorry, old habit on terminology. Just the VC...it's not motorized.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Mar 19, 2019 19:09:59 GMT
Stephen,
You have a problem with that amp--something's "leaking to ground" -- the problem is on the "other (output) side" of the VC ! Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Mar 19, 2019 19:47:55 GMT
That was my first thought as well except when I tested it at my house on my STD it worked. I'll have to take it back to my place and test it again. I solved the GFI breaking, that was just my own stupidity. What I don't have now is the reject ability. Either from the rear or the service switches.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Mar 19, 2019 19:54:31 GMT
Stephen,
Don't leave people "hanging"--what was the GFI problem ??
Did you service that relay ? Do you know the reject circuit--very simple --
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Post by paradisecs on Mar 19, 2019 21:38:46 GMT
I pulled the relay cover off and cleaned (looked new). I'm not sure I understand your paragraph in the Microlog Guide regarding the biasing of this relay. With the relay out of the unit and cover removed the relay is against the outer four contacts. If I manipulate the switch it looks to me as though all four contacts hit the inner contact points simultaneously. After removing the spring and armature I'm not sure what blades need adjusted. The ones on the inner or outer contacts?  Stephen |
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Post by robnyc on Mar 20, 2019 2:17:58 GMT
Stephen, when you press the reject button on the volume control does the relay pull-in? If it does not then hold the button in (or short it) while moving the volume control plug on the amp around a bit. I've had problems with intermittents in the plugs for VC and mech on these old amps.
On the relay, the only custom adjustment is to bias the two outer sets to close slightly ahead of the center sets. If these are not done all that happens is that you'll get a thump or pop when the mech trips at record end.
RobNYC
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Post by paradisecs on Mar 20, 2019 14:52:04 GMT
As to the GFI issue, I was an idiot. It was a wiring problem that I stupidly didn't catch. I took pictures before working on the unit and I plugged everything back in according to the picture rather doing what I know should have been done. The VC was plugged in to the DCC at J3111 instead of the AMP where it was supposed to be. I knew when I wrote my initial comments above that something didn't make sense but rather than going on instinct I followed the pictures. Finally blew the main amp fuse and the fuse on the back of the mech which I don't have an immediate replacement for.
Solved my relay bias by turning the front side up and facing me then Ron's method made sense to me.
Still having issue with the trip but that is hopefully just the fuse on the mech. Right now when any of the electric trip switches are used the volum mutes a bit but nothing else happens. I'm n a rainny field-trip today so hopefully have an update tomorrow.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Mar 20, 2019 15:01:50 GMT
Stephen,
What's 3111 on the DCC-- I don't see that on my schematics ??
The 2 amp fuse inside the SHP, has NOTHING to do with your "reject problem" ! If you not using a POWERED VC, you can leave it out !
Ron Rich
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fbody
New Member
Posts: 10
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Post by fbody on Mar 21, 2019 18:40:50 GMT
Just an FYI from my personal experience, you might want to plug the unit into a normal receptacle or try replacing the GFI with a newer one. I'm not a big fan of having any (especially older) equipment regularly plugged into them as they can nuisance trip on normally working equipment. I know some people get bent out of shape if you even mildly criticize a "safety feature", but that is my experience.
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Post by Ron Rich on Mar 21, 2019 19:06:04 GMT
I think the newer ones are better--In our "old house" the washer (and I have tried 3 different, new washers, and a number of GFI outlets)can not be plugged into the GFI--it WILL trip, about half way through a load of wash ? In our "new house (built last year) the whole house is GFI, by law, at the breakers. These don't trip when the washer is used --BUT, they tend to trip, for no reason, when noboody's home ? And several of our neighbors houses do the same at the same time, so we have "a deal"--if one trips at one of our neighbors, they will re-set theirs, and check on ours--usually find that one or two of ours needs resetting too-- we do the same for them--? Ron Rich
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