|
|
Post by gordo on May 7, 2019 1:41:44 GMT
Hi,
I am in the initial stages of rebuilding a Seeburg KS200 jukebox. It has many issues.
While I await some parts and a manual, I thought I would get the selector drum working. (Easy job I thought).
However, after lube and cleaning, the motor runs and runs and runs, the drum will not stop.
Checking everything, I suspect the capacitor at the motor may be faulty.
I thought I would replace it, but I am unable to read what size it is.
Can someone please advise me?
It has 200 Volt, + - 10% and number 86232. This is all I can read as it is very faded.
Any help appreciated while I wait for my manual to arrive.
Kind Regards
Gordon...
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on May 7, 2019 3:09:41 GMT
Hi Gordon,
I doubt that cap is the cause--going from ,my great, but not too long memory, that's a noise suppression cap. One of two things usually is the cause of an AC motor over run. Clutch not releasing in time is #1. #2 is a non closing/opening, switch contact. Didja soak the felt reservoirs with 20 wt. ND oil ?? Didja put a drop on both ends of the armature shaft ?? Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by gordo on May 7, 2019 4:17:07 GMT
Thanks Ron,
Well then, I won't change the cap.
Yes, I oiled everything well and the motor runs very smooth and very quietly.
I was so pleased at first (as it previously was not running at all).
I have also checked every switch and wiring 10 times.
I must be missing something. The clutch perhaps!
I will keep looking (and perhaps wait for the manual to arrive).
Regards
Gordon...
|
|
|
|
Post by gordo on May 7, 2019 7:32:48 GMT
Ron,
I checked the clutch.
It works smoothly and drops straight out when power is switched off (at Wall outlet).
The problem appears to be that the power does not turn off when the selector drum turns to a selected classification.
My manual has arrived, so I intend to check every wire is connected to the correct pin on the plugs.
I think someone may have moved some wires around.
Cheers
Gordon..
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on May 7, 2019 13:22:05 GMT
Hi Gordo,
Let me know what you find ??
Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by gordo on May 8, 2019 3:26:27 GMT
Hi Ron,
Unfortunately a few hours wasted. I found nothing wrong.
The motor still has continual power.
If I remove the plug to the classification selectors(jukebox), no change.
What I did find was that the Detent Switch makes no difference whether open or closed.
Power to both sides.
I removed the switch (un-soldered the wire) and it is fine.
My manual refers to the condenser in the troubleshooting section as a possible cause, but does not provide it's size!
Any suggestions gratefully appreciated.
Regards
Gordon..
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on May 8, 2019 13:45:26 GMT
Gordo,
.5x200vdc ! Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by gordo on May 8, 2019 20:44:27 GMT
Thanks Ron,
I will replace it, but from what you said previously, I doubt it will help.
I am sure that I am missing something and suspect a short in a switch or wire although I have checked at least 10 times!
I might move on to other issues and have another look later with 'fresh' eyes.
Regards Gordon
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on May 9, 2019 2:50:45 GMT
Gordon,
Not sure of what you mean by --removed one of the wires, and it's fine"--What's "fine"-- does the motor now stop ? If so, the cap is shorted !
Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by gordo on May 9, 2019 5:54:21 GMT
Ron,
Sorry, I should write clearer.
No change, as motor still does not stop running.
I checked the detent switch and it has power to both sides whether it is open or closed by the coupling. So it is doing nothing. I don't know why.
I removed the switch and unsoldered one side to check if the switch was faulty.
It is not faulty.
I managed to buy a capacitor, however, not exactly the size you recommend as they do not stock that size.
They had a 1x450vdc which they said will work.
I will try that and let you know.
If it still keeps running I guess I will need disconect every wire until I find a fault.
I will get there.
Cheers Gordon
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on May 9, 2019 13:47:55 GMT
Gordon,
Remove the cap ! I suspect it's shorted--yes that cap will work--but it's "overkill"-- LOL Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by gordo on May 11, 2019 23:59:51 GMT
Ron,
I installed the new cap and......IT WORKED!
However it only worked for a short time (1 minute or so).
The drum stopped at the correct classification about 10 times so I thought it was fixed.
Then back to continued running of the drum motor.
Could it be that I installed the wrong size cap?
As I could not get a 0.5 x 200vdc I installed a 1uF x 450vdc.
Regards
Gordon...
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on May 12, 2019 3:07:56 GMT
Gordon,
Did you check the old cap --is it shorted ? I am assuming the old one was a "paper" type--is the new on also a paper type, or an electrolytic ? Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by gordo on May 12, 2019 4:17:35 GMT
Ron,
No, I didn't check the existing cap. (I'm not sure how).
It is a plastic covered (faded) red.
Not a paper type.
It has 200 Volt, + - 10% and number 86232 written on it (about the size of a small AA battery).
The rest is faded off.
I assume it is electrolytic as my diagram shows the symbol that I thought was electrolytic.
Am I correct that the proper size cap is 0.47 uF x 200 vdc (have I got the decimal point correct?)
Therefore 1uF x 450vdc is OK?
I replaced the original with an electrolytic cap.
Unfortunately my manual does not give a size for the cap.
Regards
Gordon....
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on May 12, 2019 13:40:01 GMT
Gordon,
The original was a "paper" cap., covered in plastic-- I dono if a lytic can be used there-- I would not use it. I think the new one has also shorted out--
To test it , for shorts only, use an ohm meter-- should not show as shorted.
The original was a .05, the newer "standard" markings for a point 05, would be .047 -- Voltage is no problem as long as it's 200, or higher, volts.
Ron Rich
|
|
