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Post by Ron Rich on Jun 13, 2019 12:49:14 GMT
If you own/operate a Seeburg model B, thru the early production K/L models, there was a 0.1x600 cap., connected to the front two left hand terminals of the motor terminal board on the mechanism switch plate. This cap. was eliminated in production of the K/L models as it was found that: 1. Most importantly--They were prone to explode ! 2. It was not necessary (if reversing switch was properly adjusted--see our FAQ's --"over center switches". post). Ron Rich
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Post by jukeboxmarty on Jun 14, 2019 2:10:16 GMT
Ha ha! Got you again Ron!....
The capacitor is a .1 not a .01uf, you may want to edit the post.
If one really felt they needed to use a capacitor there, they could use a safety capacitor of the appropriate value. These capacitors are designed to fail open and more gracefully than other capacitors.
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Post by Ron Rich on Jun 14, 2019 2:21:26 GMT
Hi Marty,
Thanks--fixxed big thumb prblem !!
Whatza "safety capacitor"--? Were they around in the late 40's ??
Ron Rich
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Post by jukeboxmarty on Jun 14, 2019 2:34:02 GMT
Safety capacitors were not available in the 40's.
They are generally designed as line filter capacitors (AC line to chassis/ground). They are designed to fail open (Class Y) to prevent electric shock in case of failure. Additionally, they are encased is a flame retardant or flame-proof case.
I've used these for quite a while in various AC applications and haven't had one go boom yet!
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Post by Ron Rich on Jun 14, 2019 2:36:42 GMT
Ah,, Thanks, Marty ! My guess would be, they could not get that idea past the "bean counters"-- ??
Ron Rich
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Post by jukeboxmarty on Jun 14, 2019 2:58:22 GMT
If the bean counters could have found a way to get the mechanism to turn without a motor, they would have eliminated it! I guess every single cent counts!  |
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Post by Ron Rich on Jun 14, 2019 12:47:16 GMT
Hi Marty,
I have had a million "wars" with Seeburgs "bean counters", over items that cost less then 1/8 of a cent -- I lost more the 2/3rds of the wars ---
Ron Rich
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Post by popbumper1015 on Apr 18, 2020 16:25:53 GMT
I have removed the capacitor (mine was silver/grey in color) in question from my VL200. I also adjusted, as best as I can, the contacts mentioned. I do get a "pop" through the speakers when the mech reverses but not every time. Could someone recommend a suitable "safety capacitor" replacement that would not blow a hole through my mech cover and help maintain the integrity of the contacts? A part number and source would be great.
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 18, 2020 17:00:01 GMT
If, you "adjust" the reversing switch as pointed out in the sticky in our "FAQ's" section, you will not get that "pop", and your reversing switch probably will be a lot "happier" ! Ron Rich
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Post by popbumper1015 on Apr 22, 2020 19:55:21 GMT
Hi Rich,
Then I need to ask another question. Can you think why sometimes during the reversing process I get no "pop" at all and other times I do hear the "pop"? This can occur on both right and left reverse processes? No consistency. Contact block appears to be secure and the contacts don't appear pitted. Kinda difficult to "adjust" when it's not consistent. Thanks for your help.
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 22, 2020 22:28:04 GMT
Only thing that causes that is an insufficient "air gap" in that reversing switch. One set of contacts is closing too soon--all sets must be open at the same time -- Ron Rich
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Post by mccseeburg on Mar 25, 2021 12:27:24 GMT
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Post by Ron Rich on Mar 25, 2021 12:59:55 GMT
Please READ what was written-- that cap should be eliminated, not replaced ! See our FAQ's post on "over center switches". Ron Rich
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Post by mccseeburg on Mar 25, 2021 13:24:28 GMT
Well thats easy enough.
Dont be angry with me - I am a novice, after removing the capacitor, to the empty solder points need to be connected - or just remove the capacitor and ta da.
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Post by mccseeburg on Mar 29, 2021 19:57:40 GMT
Please READ what was written-- that cap should be eliminated, not replaced ! See our FAQ's post on "over center switches". Ron Rich This image is of my mechanism and the capacitor currently installed - it appears to be a newer cap than the original ?
So just to be clear - I should remove this capacitor and tape off any loose wires from the removal ?
Thanks...
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