wurlitzer 3200 repair

[stlmo]

Having a problem with the selector. Problem is intermittent. 

I can make selections and everything works but then it stops working.


I find if I hit the circuit breaker most times it starts working again.


I'm not much of a good troubleshooter. Any suggestions on how to fix this?


thanks for any advice.

John

[Ron Rich]

Hi John,
Blowing that 8/10 amp CB, indicates an overlarge, or too long of a draw. That CB opens to save the coils in that circuit. It could be that the CB is failing also--you will need to trouble shoot this problem. See if that CB only blows when a specific letter, or number is selected. If not, you might try replacing the CB with an 8/10 slow blow fuse. If that fuse holds, it is OK to leave it in the circuit, or replace the CB. If a specific coil is blowing the CB, that coil is bad. If random--have you oiled the AC motor that drives the "Electrical Selector" ? Is that motor "reversing" every time, as it should when a selection is made ? Your problem can also be a relay problem--have you inspected them--cleaned up any burned contacts ( you will need to replace you can no longer "clean up"). If you do not know how to "clean up" those relays, see FAQ's on this forum. Ron Rich

[stlmo]

more woes with my 3200. Took out lower to get to coils.

Most all now working but when I make a selection that is on the outer ring on the left side it just gets stuck. Hitting the tab in center but just bends the tab and stops.

figure I must have something out of alignment but cant seem to adjust in.

really killing me..

[Ron Rich]

If you removed the two bolts which are marked "Do not remove", you are in trouble,as I understand it, you MUST have a jig to re-align that properly. If not,did you use the factory alignment tool correctly when you did remove/replace the lower mechanism half--sounds as if it's not correctly aligned -- Ron Rich

[stlmo]

I didn't see anything that said do not remove but agree I may be in trouble.

Anyone know someone in St. Louis area I could pay to help me out?

Thanks

John

[Ron Rich]

Use this list's attributes--look in the FAQ's for "repair people" !

[robnyc]

Jul 3, 2017 13:47:24 GMT stlmo said:

more woes with my 3200. Took out lower to get to coils.
Most all now working but when I make a selection that is on the outer ring on the left side it just gets stuck. Hitting the tab in center but just bends the tab and stops.
figure I must have something out of alignment but cant seem to adjust in.
really killing me..

 Well, first, let's get the terms correct: the "tabs" are called "pins" in the typical application in jukes. The arm that turns and hits the selected pin is call a "crank' . Note this title is often  applied to jukebox repairmen.

When the crank rotates and hits a pin a switch on the crank assembly gets actuated this causes the mech motor to reverse and begin the loading-playing process.  Electrical continuity is provided by slip-rings and contact fingers.

If the mech detents-plays correctly on one side of the circle -but jams on the other it is likely that the fingers are losing contact with the slip-rings due to either misalignment of the pin memory and/or bending of the contact fingers as you handled the memory.

The first thing to do is make sure you get the memory properly aligned.   There should be an alignment tool clipped to the side wall of the machines. It is generally near the Playrak (credit unit).   Alignment is performed by loosening slightly the bolts at the top of the trapezoidal piece at the rear of the memory  and the two underneath at either side at front. these are what you used to remove the unit.   Then the tool in inserted upwards at the very center underneath. While holding the tool in-place carefully tighten the securing bolts. Ideally, the tool should just fall out when released showing perfect alignment. That never happens, but I did find a close to perfect alignment can be done with a "shifting around" of the memory before tightening the bolts. Do this by pulling out the tool and watching which direction the memory shifts to, then re-loosen the bolts and shift the memory to compensate in that direction and re-tighten.  It ain't necessary to get it perfect...just close enough for rock 'n roll.

If the tool is missing use a Phillips screwdriver that fits snugly.  I wouldn't worry about that "do not loosen these bolts" notice on the mech. Doing so makes the alignment a bit more difficult -but really, NBD.

RobNYC

[Ron Rich]

Hi Rob,
Back in the late 60's, before you PC types came along, I used to frequent a bar once in awhile along with the crew, from the WurliTzer owned/operated dist., and sometimes one or more of the guys from the Rowe O&O. I remember on one occasion, early in the evening, when the WurliTzer factory field rep. was there--He was adamant about not removing those two "do not remove" bolts ! I can only re-call seeing them loose on one phono, and I remember what I did -- which worked ! I left them semi tight. Then I aligned the lower portion using the tool. Once aligned, I tightened the upper two bolts--and ran as fast as I could----Hint: When using the factory alignment tool, put a (very) light coating of oil on it first, work it up/down in the hole a few times--it will then be much more likely to "fall out". ( Learnt dat at a "factory service school" --probably the same night--but earlier !) I don't think this is good advice, but I had one older gent, who worked on many Wurlies tell me "-- if the tool don't fall out, leave the SOB in the hole--it'll work just fine--". I have never tried that, but have seen phono's on location with the tool still inserted in them.

[stlmo]

Thank you!



I got it working again. Found the alignment tool on ebay.  ended up just leaving it in there and it aligned well



thank you both for the responses. Robnyc I wouldn't have gotten it go without your advice 



still having a problem with one coil but living with a1 to a5 not working.