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Post by cruiseomatic on Dec 26, 2019 23:43:06 GMT
How does someone remove all the old oil from the wicks to replace it for the motors on a model 1100 changer? I mean strip it all out. And for the remaining moving parts such as gears and bushings can someone use a dry lube to further protect and reduce load? I'm fully aware of what Ami "specifies" but 3 places out of many many moving parts and every 5 years.... No I'm good. That's an insane service interval. Extra protection that doesn't attract dust can't be a bad thing, right?
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 27, 2019 0:02:53 GMT
There was a lot of controversy, over this-- I have spoken with a couple of the Rowe engineers, and a few of the motor makers reps., on this subject. Apparently, the advice on "lubrication" printed in the Rowe Service Manuals, at that time, was from the "Marketing Dept.", NOT engineering ! The couple of Rowe engineers, I spoke with on this subject, just mumbled something --not quite loud enough for me to hear -- The guys from the motor company stated, with-out reserve, "--- that's F'kin' crazy ! -- Oil wicks on motors should be kept full of 20 wt. ND oil--". How to remove the old--and replace, I do the following: Dis-assemble, flush bearings / oil wicks with a safety solvent -dry--re-oil. As for grease , like in a gearbox-- if not caked, or,dry, just re-spread it onto the gears. If bad, wash it VERY well in safety solvent-- re-apply a non-gumming type grease-- ( I like graphite based grease--but others don't). On lubrication of "other things"-- just use common sense. On the Nylon bearings--Rowe engineers also apparently dis-agreed. The "Nylon people" claimed that NO "lubrication, of any kind, was ever needed". But I have been told by a Rowe engineer, to dis-regard that, and use a "tiny drop", of 20 wt. ND., on all of the Nylon bearings--I questioned that when I got an instruction sheet stating that the Nylon bearings should be oiled. Engineer said--"we slipped one by Marketing".
Ron Rich
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Post by Ken Layton on Dec 27, 2019 3:47:02 GMT
This is what I do: I disassemble the motor and soak the bearings in mineral spirits. Lightly scrubbing the bearings with an old toothbrush and some Q-Tips swabs helps loosen up the dried out lubrication. After everything has been cleaned and dried I then re-oil the bearings with 20 wt ND oil.
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 27, 2019 3:54:57 GMT
Hi Ken, Mineral spirits should work great--however the old toothbrush must be free of tooth paste, first-- ! lol Ron Rich
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Post by cruiseomatic on Dec 27, 2019 15:43:37 GMT
How do I get the TT motor bushings apart if they're riveted in the cover? And can I gently remove the covers for the transfer and magazine motor wicks? Got a fresh bottle of motor oil and thinking of using the dry lube for all the brass and plastic gears. Also considered using it on all moving parts. According to what I've read, it contains Teflon and applies wet then quickly dries do to not attract contaminations nor will gum up. Should also quiet things down.
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 27, 2019 15:52:12 GMT
You don't need to remove, nor do you want to try to remove them- just clean them the best you can and saturate the wicks with the 20 wt oil ! I don't like any "dry Lube's, including Teflon -it DO "gum up" some works ! Might be OK in VERY small amounts, on "sliding" surfaces, Only, IMHO. Ron Rich
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Post by cruiseomatic on Dec 27, 2019 19:52:21 GMT
What are "non-gumming" type greases? I have a can of white lithium but I don't think it'll work. It would be better to use grease on the gears and oil base for others.
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 27, 2019 23:07:14 GMT
Please re-read my first post on this subject-- that answered this question ! Ron Rich
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Post by cruiseomatic on Dec 27, 2019 23:52:51 GMT
Wow... I just re read that and the word some didn't type. I meant what are SOME non gumming greases., Lol. I shouldn't speak to type sometimes.
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Post by amiman66 on Jan 13, 2020 12:53:21 GMT
My advice to end users is not to lubricate at all, I have seen all the bad effects including having to replace the motors, solenoids and micro switches because someone has over lubricated everything, one jukebox was smoking from burning oil.
My advice is lubricate nothing on the gripper bow assembly other than using high melting point grease in the trunnion casting pivot sockets. With regards the the idler linkage, one spot of oil to all the pivot points once the assembly has been cleaned, one spot of oil o the turntable shaft and one spot of oil on the top bearing of the turntable motor and two spots on the bottom bearing if an oil tube is fitted. I also oil the motor oil wicks sparingly.
Regards Alan Hood ami-man UK
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