1100 Coin Grinder Questions

[richardtx]

Hello,

First time poster here.  I have a 1100 that my Coin Mech/Grinder is mostly operational and I am hoping that someone could help.  I do have a manual coming (a awesome original inbound from Canada) but that of course does not help me today

My first problem is what I assume is a lock relay/coil to pass coins the correct way, depending on the power state.  When the Jukebox is on, it isn't engaging so the coins shoot to the coin return.  The coil looks in real bad shape,  Though with a lock relay like this being "always engaged" (I see this all the time in EM Pinballs) and I am not surprised how it "looks".  At least it isn't a direct short, if it is bad.  Any ideas on a replacement coil, even if it isn't bad I think it is best to replace it.  There also may be a wire missing, since on the left side there is a blob of solder with no wire there.

Next problem is the ginder was locked into "Free Play" by having the contact bent nearly at 90 degrees to be always closed.  This contact when open turns off credits, which I can easily hear another reply disengage and the selection light go out.  This contact is directly below the lock relay coil that allows coins to be accepted or not depending on the power state.

Now my problem is, for the life of me when I shoot a nickel / dime / quarter in (which make all manner of things move/turn/tick in the grinder) what actually touches the contact to close it for "you have credits / make selection".  There seems to be nothing near the longer contract to close it in my grinder.  My only guess is that I am missing something.


I tried to add a photo but even though its under 1MB it will not attached (forum exceeded limit)

[richardtx]

well, the lockout coil to enable the coin drop path is bad, it has 26v AC going to it. Though no paper around it to know its type.

[Ron Rich]

Yep-- good clue that "blob of solder-no wire attached--"
Photo-- yes you can--read our FAQ's section.
Wait for your Manual-- he should be able to tell you what that coil is- ( I don't think it's too critical-- probably can easily re-wind it ) Ron Rich

[richardtx]

Thanks Ron - I'll read the Faq's in a bit.

Well, I got it figured out. The contact that was at bent, it's suppose to be that way. That is a normally closed contact and when you make a selection it opens. The one that was actually forced closed was the one off the credit wheel, so when the wheel went home it never opened. So set up for "free play". I adjusted the one I dorked with and then the one that was force to be always closed and now I have it cycling credits. Though I am not so sure if a nickel is suppose to be 2 credits or not. I do know a dime and a quarter give a heck of a lot more credits!

I'd like to say I figured this out all on my own but I did not - I finally found a youtube talking about free play that shows this grinder. While it was talking about setting up free play, I could see how how all the bits work. 

Now I need to sort out the lockout / Coin Return Coil.  As for re-winding this coil, not sure if that is my cup of tea.  I am sure my dad is rolling in his grave with me saying that, I only watched him re-wind dozens of coils when I was a kid.  I guess I should have listened more!

Now in this video, the author talks about selection coils getting burned up.  I suppose the way this 1100 was set up for free play is why 6 color are looking nearly burnt.  They are all working but those 6 don't look happy at all.  I have spares of those for if (or when) they decide to go south on me

[Ron Rich]

Hi Richard,
Glad you got it- the u"usual reason" for un-happy looking coils is someone adds a 'free play plug" to the system-- since your grinder is still there, it should limit the time a selection coil can stay energized. I am not familiar with the 1100's-- but have built "free-play units" for the 1015's using two relays to time the pulse to the selection coils-- I think the 1100 does the same ? See the manual, when you get it-- Ron Rich

[richardtx]

At this point I think we will feed it coins. The coil I need isn't overly critical, as the lever on the coin processor is easily kept open with a rubber wedge (softly wedge in place).

Though I am keeping my eyes out for a proper Wurlitzer coil or one that would work in its place. I wouldn't be surprised if I can find one from a pinball line that could work in its place.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Richard,
Use caution that coins are NOT fed into it when it's "grinding" --or you will have a mell of a hess ! -
As far as the CREM coil goes, I really don't think it's critical-- if it can block coin entry,for the short length of time needed, it should be OK-- You can always stick a small fuse, in line with the coil to prevent seeing smoke ! Ron Rich

[richardtx]

It's all good now, I got a complete coil/bracket hardward off ebay - Wurlitzer 1400 1500 1600 CRM Coin Return Coil # 54621 or 54622 - 35 ohms. It is now fully operational in my 1100. The hardware screwed right in and fit like a glove.

While the resistance is different for the coil between the 1100 and 1400/1500/1600 grinders, if I am understanding coils properly - this one is just a better coil that will last longer. The 1100 coil was listed as 20 ohms and the 1400/1500/1600 grinders are listed at 40 ohms (though it measures more like 35 ohms). The coil I got is in really great shape, the paper around it is not even discolored from heat (only age).

Thanks for all the help.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Richard,
"Resistance" can not be measured in a coil ! Using the resistance setting on the meter, can only give you an approximate, and only assures the coil is not "shorted", IF you have an idea of what it should read. That reading is dependent on the type, and quality, of the meter used, also-- Glad you were able to get the coil--and it's working !! Ron Rich