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Post by prime on May 14, 2022 11:19:37 GMT
Yes you have tried to be clear and you have been, i have doe exactly what you wanted, only i obviously and mistakenly did more. So firstly i am at no time touching the K2-1, I made a selection, the write in process hung up, i grounded the tan/red wire, the k2-2 switches release or open and the write in starts again, i let it hang up then touched the blue/red wire, nothing happens, at no time is the ADR affected. I am sorry for the confusion I thought i was helping by giving you more information. I will not move forward in the future. pete
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Post by Ron Rich on May 14, 2022 12:02:20 GMT
Hi Pete,
IF, I understand correctly--when you are "touching" these contact blades to ground, the relay is energized ? If so, and touching one of these contact blades causes an action, but touching the other one causes no action-- the contacts are NOT "making". Have you removed these contacts and examined the contact points ? Have you properly, "cleaned-adjusted" them- have you checked that the contact points are still tightly affixed to the blades ? Ron Rich
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Post by prime on May 14, 2022 13:05:40 GMT
When i use my analog meter, set on ohms and touch each wire going to the first switch with each probe and close switch it moves the needle completely to the right 0 ohms, on the other switch exactly the same. I feel both switches are working properly. If i power up and just lightly close the switch on the right the ADR immediately activates. I dont think the switch is the issue here.
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Post by prime on May 14, 2022 13:22:22 GMT
Ron and Norman i think the issue here is the order or the color. the first K2-2 switch has a tan/brown wire on the left, the second has a tan/red wire on the left. If i touch the tan/red wire when write in is energized i get nothing But if i touch the tan/brown when energized the switch releases and then if i touch the tan/red the ADR activates. While the switch is in the closed position the ADR doesn't work.
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Post by Ron Rich on May 14, 2022 14:08:47 GMT
Pete,
Sorry--I'm "totally lost" here, and have no manual-- so I will hopefully, let you and Norman, figure this out ! Ron Rich
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Post by jukenorman on May 14, 2022 15:52:32 GMT
Hi Pete,
I cannot see a tan/brown wire anywhere near the switches. I can see two tan/red wires on the K2-2 switch which is as per the schematic. The left-most wire on the switch stack is brown/white (as per schematic) and that is the K2-1 switch anyway - which I said not to touch! When you ground the tan/red wire, am I going to have to assume that the ADR relay is energising and completing the sequence because you haven't actually confirmed that as far as I can see. Maybe it's all happening too quickly? But I'm confused and I have the schematic!
Can you provide some umambiguous answers to the questions in my last post. Do you understand that there are two separate switches on the stack designated K2-1 and K2-2? When you say "the first K2-2 switch has a tan/brown wire on the left", what do you mean?
Norman.
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Post by prime on May 14, 2022 16:25:18 GMT
Ok the penny has dropped, i thought K2-2 and K2-1 were separate switches. Now i see its the same stack just different switches . As far as the tan/brown it looks' tan but i guess i should have confirmed that. Ok last time write in stops and energizes, i touched a ground wire to tan/red no affect ,then blue/red no effect.
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Post by jukenorman on May 14, 2022 16:55:16 GMT
Hi Pete,
I wasn't actually expecting that! In your picture, to the left of the K2 switches is the ADR relay. There are two pink wires connecting to the coil - can you connect a meter there on DC volts and measure the voltage with respect to ground. Can you the perform the selection and note the voltage there when the write-in hangs up.
Norman.
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Post by jukenorman on May 14, 2022 17:26:22 GMT
Actually, I've had another very obvious thought - how about checking the -28V DC fuse? If it was OK before you started, decking the K2-1 switch surely should have popped it! PS it should be 1 amp.
Norman
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Post by prime on May 14, 2022 17:56:15 GMT
Fuse is good, connecting to left and right side of coil -29 vdc both, engaging write in left side of coil 0 vdc right side -6.8 vdc
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Post by jukenorman on May 14, 2022 18:09:45 GMT
OK Pete, something is pulling down the DC volts which is (presumably) why the ADR relay is not operating when it should. We need to put on our thinking caps to decide how to proceed! As an aside, you checked the fuse, did you check that it was 1A rated?
Norman.
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Post by prime on May 14, 2022 18:57:26 GMT
No i didnt , ive checked it now ,it was an 8amp 32vlt i replaced it with a 1amp 120/240 vlt. I tried the unit it did not blow the fuse and nothing changed. By the way what voltages should i get from the coil when the write in is engaged?
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Post by jukenorman on May 14, 2022 19:56:46 GMT
The coil should work down to about 16 volts or thereabouts. An 8A fuse where it should be a 1A is seriously overdoing it, I have to say! When you have been making selections, have you been making A and B sides? Maybe you could try that - that could point to a problem with a hammer coil. Of course both hammer coils could be defective, we shouldn't overlook that. Also don't be suprised if you pop the DC fuse now you have reduced it to 1A.
Norman.
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Post by prime on May 14, 2022 20:56:32 GMT
Yes i have tried a few b sides, but i was wondering about the coils, i found a bag on the floor at the back that has pieces from a write in so i figured there as an issue once. What is the best way to test the coils?
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Post by jukenorman on May 15, 2022 10:01:22 GMT
Hi Pete, The coils should measure around 35 ohms (give or take). If you measure the coils in circuit, it's probably best to discoonnect one leg to be crtain that other parts of the circuit are not skewing the figures. In the bag that you found with parts, are there coils - if so, you could measure them on ohms. Also, are there any signs of stess on the coils in the machine, like burning?
I read back through the thread to look for clues, I had a chuckle when I read the second post! I shouldn't have but I did! I think the other item to check is the wobble plate solenoid. If I had to take a punt on what the problem might be, I think I might plump for that. I just measured one and got 27 ohms.
Norman. |
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