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Tsa10
Feb 6, 2018 15:14:04 GMT
Post by migman903 on Feb 6, 2018 15:14:04 GMT
Im trying to figure out why my mute / reject relay is not working, I've changed it put with a new one and still nothing ,it' not the ice cube style , it' built inside the amp any help would be appreciated
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Tsa10
Feb 6, 2018 15:18:24 GMT
Post by Ron Rich on Feb 6, 2018 15:18:24 GMT
What does "not working" mean ? Do you have power ? if so, are you bench testing or machine testing ? Ron Rich
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Tsa10
Feb 6, 2018 15:56:52 GMT
Post by migman903 on Feb 6, 2018 15:56:52 GMT
I have power,dim bulb test was good, now im machine testing . The reject switch on the mech service controls is also dead
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Tsa10
Feb 7, 2018 14:54:12 GMT
Post by Ron Rich on Feb 7, 2018 14:54:12 GMT
Sorry--don't understand your response-- If playing a record--do you have sound ? If so, does operating any reject" mute the sound ? Do you have the manual--if so, see the record cancel diagram in the front of the manual. Did you just get this phono, or have you had it (working) awhile ? Ron Rich
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 1:30:06 GMT
via mobile
Post by migman903 on Mar 5, 2018 1:30:06 GMT
I am blowing fuses, I re-hooked up the dim bulb tester and now the bulb is staying bright (short) I can't seem to find any schematics on this amp or a parts list does anyone have a suggestion as to where to look for this short? I sure could use a starting point.
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 2:09:41 GMT
Post by robnyc on Mar 5, 2018 2:09:41 GMT
For your the ares that could result in blown fuses, you can use this (or any later TSa schematic): www.flickr.com/photos/90641375@N06/26752769278/in/dateposted-public/After TSa4 the voltage and driver stages were silicon. After TSa5 the printed boards were used. The basic architecture remained through all the TSa amps other than the external volume control on the 10. The power increases were just accomplished with "larger iron" in the power and output trans. You may now have shorted output transistors in one channel. Test by removing each pair and using the diode test on your DVM. If shorted, be sure to check the drivers as well. RobNYC
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 11:24:25 GMT
via mobile
Post by migman903 on Mar 5, 2018 11:24:25 GMT
Rob what should they read on the DMV and thank you .
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 12:31:15 GMT
Post by robnyc on Mar 5, 2018 12:31:15 GMT
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 13:04:05 GMT
Post by robnyc on Mar 5, 2018 13:04:05 GMT
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 18:13:12 GMT
via mobile
Post by grizzlydude on Mar 5, 2018 18:13:12 GMT
Could it be the power transformer?
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 18:48:39 GMT
via mobile
Post by migman903 on Mar 5, 2018 18:48:39 GMT
Idk..... Rob, How do u test one?
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 18:51:36 GMT
Post by Ron Rich on Mar 5, 2018 18:51:36 GMT
Yep--could be-how many times have you "changed" the amp main fuse, and what size did you use ? Ron Rich
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 20:07:29 GMT
via mobile
Post by migman903 on Mar 5, 2018 20:07:29 GMT
The only fuse I had left came from a extra dcc3, but it also blows the phonos main fuse also
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 20:22:29 GMT
Post by Ron Rich on Mar 5, 2018 20:22:29 GMT
Didn't axked-chew dat ?? But iffin you "borrowed" that fuse, from a DCC, and if correct, that waz a GMQ 3.2 amp fuse. The TSA 10 takes an 8/10 amp fuse, or a 1.0 amp fuse if a TSA-10B. (BOTH, GMQ's) --Ya I would not be to surprized to see a transformer blown, along with whatever was wrong in the 1st place. Ron Rich
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Tsa10
Mar 5, 2018 21:11:32 GMT
via mobile
Post by migman903 on Mar 5, 2018 21:11:32 GMT
Not sure what fuse it takes , or what fuse it was but if u know for sure which it is I will order some.
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