Post by Craig on Dec 11, 2016 17:12:36 GMT
ORIGINALLY POSTED ON PHONOLAND BY RON RICH
Hi All,
This gets asked enough that I thought I'd write a "sticky", and hopefully it will be read, before it's asked again
For any set of contacts, open or enclosed, a GOOD analog meter is required, set at "X" (or "R")-1--digital type meters, will not do it !
For open blade contact points--remove one wire--connect the meter to the two terminals, and actuate the switch. These switches having silver contact points, must be "clean", free of "pits", and/or burned areas. A "contact point burnishing tool" is recommended--I do not recommend "sprays", other then, a "plastic safe - non residue" type is OK, to wash it. If pitted/burnt, a file must be used, followed by the burnishing tool -- NO "sandpaper" of any type, IMHO, should be used. Contact area must have silver on it, or it needs replacement--Gold contacts, usually turn black--no file, or burnisher should be used !! If not burned, a SMALL dab of Deoxit 5, or better yet, Deoxit "gold" may be used. A burnt "gold contact" may be filed/burnished, but it will not last too long after that---should be replaced.
Hi All,
This gets asked enough that I thought I'd write a "sticky", and hopefully it will be read, before it's asked again
POWER OFF--SWITCH DISCONNECTED, FIRST !!!!!!
"MICRO SWITCHES" -- An enclosed spring actuated, of any brand, or size (Lincoln,Cherry---), is NOT "adjustable" ! You MAY be able to move the bracket on some of them to change the position they actuate on the follower. 99.9% of the time if you think the switch is in need of adjustment, you are wrong--you need to replace that switch !
NOTE: For testing of any type switch, a GOOD Analog meter is required -- digital types, will not work !
If an enclosed three terminal "Micro Switch" (brand), or any similar type of switch, I connect one meter lead to the com. ( remove any wire there for the test), and the other to NC. At that point I s-l-o-w-l-y actuate the switch. Meter must NOT move, while switch is being pushed, until AFTER it "clicks". Once it clicks, the meter should show an open. I then run the actuator in the other direction--slowly--Once it clicks, again, I watch the meter--it should make with a near zero reading, and hold it all the way out--. If it does not fail, I move the probe to the NO terminal, and do the same two tests (it should read backwards, to the NC tests). (Note: Once it "clicks" meter MUST remain stable for the duration of the "push"--all the way down!) For open blade contact points--remove one wire--connect the meter to the two terminals, and actuate the switch. These switches having silver contact points, must be "clean", free of "pits", and/or burned areas. A "contact point burnishing tool" is recommended--I do not recommend "sprays", other then, a "plastic safe - non residue" type is OK, to wash it. If pitted/burnt, a file must be used, followed by the burnishing tool -- NO "sandpaper" of any type, IMHO, should be used. Contact area must have silver on it, or it needs replacement--Gold contacts, usually turn black--no file, or burnisher should be used !! If not burned, a SMALL dab of Deoxit 5, or better yet, Deoxit "gold" may be used. A burnt "gold contact" may be filed/burnished, but it will not last too long after that---should be replaced.
Edit--Update-- I have been informed that Deoxit-5 should NOT be used on gold plated surfaces-- I have used it with no noticed problems, however the gent that informed me, says that -5 gets under the gold and lifts it off ?
"Sliding type" as used in many keyboards-- I wash these after removing all coils/solenoids/meters, in a hot water, soapy mixture of dishwasher det. This is followed by a good rinse in hot water, followed by re-washing in a diluted ammonia, hot water, solution. Rinse in hot water again-- allow to air dry-- I do not use ANY sprays on these. They must (IMHO) remain dry !
Ron Rich