Post by nessler on Sept 9, 2023 8:31:59 GMT
Hello,
the wurlitzer 2000 malfunctions, an array of issues in series it seems that I will break down chronologically.
A month ago any selection made on the keyboard, failed to pop up a latch in the selector drum.
This started gradually, and it seemed a minor issue since the attached wallbox still managed to pop up the latches.
Anyway, the latches soon stopped popping out altogether.
I noticed a puff of smoke coming from either the 150 or 175 ohm resistor in the keyboard and decided to do maintenance.
This is the state it was before starting this quest:
It needs to be noted that the motor, from the beginning, was spinning slowly compared to other jukeboxes like the one from my dad (an 1800)
or other copies of the box on let's say youtube. Carroussel slow to move, arms slow to move up, though not sluggish as to say it would stop.
I took the selector bank out and cleaned the contacts and readjusted them. Much later I was advised to test the resistors after
disconnecting them. I later took out the junction box and amp and disconnected all cables and the resistors then measured
to their set values close enough, 148 ohm and 177 ohm respectively.
The original thought was that one of these could be an issue with the solenoid, but it seems that wouldn't be the case.
I took a glance at the coin grinder and playrak, but since I got a spare playrak and put that in, which resulted in the same failure, I moved on.
Almost at the same time, the selector crank (the hands of the clock on the selector drum) stopped cycling as well.
At this point no selections coming through, manually popped up latches not cycling the selector drum. Manually moving it
to the position of the popped latch still pushed up the record and started playing it (at this given point in time at least).
I took off the selector drum, after disconnecting all cables, and serviced the switch directly behind it which is hard to reach with the drum in place.
Noticed a lot of black grease, charcoil based I presume, cleaned that off since it started to clutter.
Replaced it with super lube multifunctional synthetic grease. Tied down the arms for this job, and then manually moved the cam using the pin on the motor.
After which I returned everything to it's starting position.
For certainty I took out the 530 amp to check the rectifier, the original selenium based rectifier was already cut off and replaced with a kbpc610.
Cleaned the contacts, as well from the junction box thinking I need to replace the 5.5V transformer sometime, and replaced everything.
Thinking all might work magically again, I couldn't haave been more wrong.
Upon reconnecting the power, all I get is an instand loud electrical "TONG" (not always) with the exact same issues still at hand.
Now not even the arms go up when manully moving the selector crank to a manually punched latch.
The sound seems to originate from the junction box and not the 530 amp.
One step forward and two steps back, I'm at wits end ... Any thoughts ?
Additional set of images:
Rectifier
530 amp
