DCC4-2 Cap Kit Question

[paradisecs]

So I am getting ready to order a cap kit from one of our FAQ vendors.  I noticed that the kit they have shows C3106-8 as 50v 100uF.  My parts list shows them as 35v 100uF.  Is that going to be an issue?  I always have gone with 20% margin of error and prefer less.  All I can see on the installed ones is Mallory...the rest of the writing isn't readable, at least not conclusively.

[jukeboxmarty]

If the vendor is supplying a 50v 100uf capacitor in place of a 35v 100uf capacitor, there won't be a problem.

[Lincoln]

If they came from Jukebox Friday Night, they won't be a problem. I've done 3 DCCS recently with kits from them. All have worked fine.

[paradisecs]

If the higher voltage is okay to use then I'll go ahead and do it. But how is an increase by nearly 50% a good thing? I pulled off one of the Mallory on my 70-311125-D board and sure enough they are 50v as well. So why then would the specs be 35V?

[paradisecs]

I thought I read in one of Rons guides to replace some diodes or resistors at the same time but now I can't find it. Is this a good idea and which ones would it be?

[Ron Rich]

Makes no difference on a cap--they are factory rated at the highest voltage they can handle. Seeburgs part list, lists the LOWest voltage they can work at--Used to be called "working" voltage rating. On that board, those caps are 'working" at 27 vdc MAX--35 volt rated caps should handle that with no sweat--40,50 100, 10000 volt rated caps will also handle it, but will be larger physically as the voltage increases. If you attempted to use a smaller then 27 volt cap, it soon would fail--may even blow up in that app. Ron Rich

[Ron Rich]

Find the Guide--two full pages on that board there-- Ron Rich

[paradisecs]

Thanks for the info. The recap went well. I still can't get selections to work but my power levels are where they should be.

[Ron Rich]

That won't be a 311125 board problem if levels are correct ! Ron Rich

[paradisecs]

I just found the ceramic cap on the leaf switch inside the DCC is broken. It looks like someone tried to resolder it it back together previously. I interpret it as .01 uF 80/-20 Z rating at 500V, I think. For verification, does anyone know what part number it is on the parts list? I think it is C3132 but can anyone verify?, I can't seem to find it marked on any of the books/manuals.

[Ron Rich]

It's on the first page of the DCC (chassis) schematic --called out as C 30-- and a very critically needed one at that ! Ron Rich

[paradisecs]

Thanks Ron. I knew it had to be there I just kept missing it on the printout. I zoomed in the schematic on my screen and now I see it. C3130 .01 uF 1400v. I have replaced all the standard caps in the cap kit and the four 1n4002 as well. I have a few resistors that seem marginal and I'm going to replace them as well. Are there any other pieces you would recommend changing while I'm at it? Part of me wants to just change it all out for practice but that probably is overkill.

[Ron Rich]

Find and READ your copy of my "MicroLog Trouble Shooting Guide" Like I said above, there are two pages on that board there !
Ron Rich

[paradisecs]

Oh, I read it all the the time and I have questions regarding adding the resistor to make it Rev-E instead of D but that is a different project. I was thinking more in line with are there any undocumented recommendations for diodes or resistors to change out when doing a cap kit. Such as the 1n4002s that I found on a post of yours from years ago. May not be needed but I did them anyway.

[paradisecs]

I'm having trouble tracking down a direct replacement for that .01 1.4k z5u ceramic unless I want to order 1000 of them at once. What specs would work as a replacement? I have closer matches if I drop the tolerance from 80/-20 to just 20% but not sure what that would do. Does it need to be a ceramic or would a mylar or lytic work? I'm guessing not, just curious.