SS160 Lower Cabinet Lid

[strosk]

I'm hoping someone can help me.  My lower cabinet lid hits the selector panel when opening and closing.  It's done this since I acquired the jukebox.  I've looked at the jukebox trying to find an adjustment for the lid, but I just don't see anything.  Online searches have been fruitless.  Is there anyone here that's run across this?  I have pictures if anyone would like to take a look.

[Ron Rich]

No "adjustments" are possible--look at the L shaped castings on the sides of the lid. They were made of "pot metal" and the torsion bars that hold the lid bend ( or worse) them. When these were fairly new, I worked at a Seeburg Distributor, that had a REALLY big man working in shipping. He claimed he could "fix-um" ! He opened them up to the point that they would stay up by themselves, placed his gut near the bottom of that lid (where it "hit", placed his hands on top of the showcase and pushed/pulled--vola ! fixxed ! ( Seeburg re-cast them with a "strengthener" but that did not help too much--later they came out with a (probably-12 gauge) metal support that screwed on--once you bent the casting back. If I re-call correctly this brace was "L" shaped, and used the existing three large screws to hold it on. Ron Rich

[strosk]

Thanks Ron! I will look for the bend after work. I'd be very leery of bending pot metal of that age back into shape... with my luck it'd surely break! In looking at the parts catalog to determine the pieces to inspect, I'm assuming you mean the LH/RH Lid & Lid Frame Casting Assembly?

[Ron Rich]

I am assuming you are correct--I do not have that catalog here--Ron Rich

[strosk]

Well, after looking for what must be the 10th time, I still don't see anything apparent. I may have to take the lid off and dig into the issue a little further.

[Ron Rich]

It's hard to see--envision the lower front lid edge closest, to your stomach, coming down to it's locked position, AFTER the black casting (?) in the rear bottoms against the cabinet. Ron Rich

[strosk]

I have the opposite problem, the front lid edge comes to rest against the selection panel, but the black casting is not even close to bottoming out against the chassis. In fact, there's a black switch inside the chassis, right side, that looks like the lid is supposed to compress when its closed. It's not even touching the switch. So, you're original explanation (I think), of putting your stomach against the front edge of the lid and pushing kinda in and up, while pulling from the back of the chassis seems like it'd be the correct move. That'd allow the black casting to get closer to bottoming out before the front lid edge did.

My problem is that I can't seem to see the bent parts, and I really hate to just start reefing on the lid

[Ron Rich]

No--your problem is exactly what I said --the lower (glass) section is bent at the "L's". This comes down too soon to clear the coin reject button, and the front cabinet casting. That "black (refrigerator lamp) button", is just that --It, if pushed, turns off the display lamps under the speaker box that light up (if working), the pop meter, when lid is open. Ron Rich

[strosk]

I guess I read your previous reply wrong. You asked me to envision the front edge coming down into it's locked position AFTER black casing bottoms out against the cabinet. Mine comes down into locked position BEFORE black casing bottoms out. I know we both know whats happening, just different words. Anyway, yes symptoms are exactly what you said. Does not clear the coin reject button or cabinet casing.

Probably a long shot, but are those strengthening brackets you mentioned earlier available anywhere?

I did replace the pop meter bulbs recently, and yes, they do stay on all the time. Now I know why with your explanation of the button. Thank you for that. If I can correct the lid problem, that will be solved as well.

[Ron Rich]

Yes--just wording-- I probably shoudda sayed "it should come down as the black casting just touches the rear of the cabinet--". No, I doubt the brackets can be found anywhere--if someone has them, I doubt they know what they have--lol ! Ron Rich

[strosk]

Of course, nothing is getting any easier to find! Which is why I'm leery of putting my 240 lbs of weight into bending things Perhaps if I can get that lid off and remove the black end pieces if will become clear what's going on.

[strosk]

I knew better, but I tried to bend the little vertical arm on the bracket a little bit. You guessed it, broke right off. I feel sick. Honestly, I don't even think it bent, just snapped. So, if anyone has any idea where I can get a left side lower cabinet assembly bracket, I'm in the market Lesson learned, unless there's a problem that I can easily find parts for first, I'm not touching it!

[Mankowski]

Strosk,

As a new owner of an ss160, I am researching solutions to some of the issues on my box and came across your old post below and was interested because I have the same issue with the lid's clearance. Sorry about your broken bracket and hope you have been able to find a replacement.

That little black switch you noted is what controls the popularity meter display lights that are on the bottom of the speakers. The position of that switch in its mounting bracket is adjustable and can be moved to compensate for the lid not sealing/closing tightly. I was able to reposition mine so that it switches off the lights. Hope you may have discovered the same in the intervening years!

[wilitrun]

This was the first problem I tackled yesterday when I got my SS160 home on the weekend.
Seeing the fracture in the side glass holder casting and deciding not to press my luck, I elongated the hole in the base end of the casting, reassembled the lid and torqued the assembly toward the 90* position while tightening the 3 screws so as to bring the assembly square again (needless to say this was done with the lid removed from the machine). After tightening the screws and comparing with a carpenter's square the assembly is much closer to square without having risked breaking the components and the pop meter light shuts off when closed with no adjustment of the interlock switch needed. It's nice to now know this is an endemic problem as I assumed someone hamfisted the lid shut with the prop deployed- I'll know to be gentle with handling the lid.