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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 28, 2016 14:54:34 GMT
Hi Guys, I was going from my great, but not too long memory when I wrote "400 ohms"-- Rob is correct, about, 260 ohms ( I just measured a NOS coil--257 ohms). I was thinking that I wanted to distinguish the AC coil ( about 6-7 ohms), from the DC one, used on the 2050 tube controlled models. Rob, BTW Vern Teasdale passed some time ago-His son Jason is now running that show-- The coils Vern had made up, by "Quality Coils" had nylon cores vs the original brass ones Seeburg used, and they do swell, if the power is held on too long--that's why he suggested a fuse right there, next to the coil. The original, Guardian built ( as were all of the "trip" coils Seeburg used, from 1950, on), would either short to the center core, or short-out internally, if they were exposed to ANY moisture !! Ron Rich
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Post by vaguy22 on Dec 28, 2016 15:39:49 GMT
Ron, Rob Thanks for the hints. will report later this evening as to results. Now I have to search for inline fuse holders. Norman
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 28, 2016 19:59:03 GMT
Norman, I use fuse clips, mounted internally onto the chassis with one screw or sometimes with double sided tape-- I prefer the gray colored "Littlefuse" branded type, but also use Buss(man) brand, when I see them-- "Radio Shack", if you can find ne carries them, or most any automotive store--Ron Rich
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Post by vaguy22 on Dec 28, 2016 21:27:10 GMT
thanks Ron will try fuse clips think I have some in my "junk box". Norman
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Post by vaguy22 on Dec 28, 2016 22:28:47 GMT
Hi guys with both mech plugs unplugged, tested resistance of trip soleniod coil coil reads 242 ohms. both sides of coil rean infinate resistance to ground
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 28, 2016 22:35:43 GMT
Hi Norman, Did you check it to ground--wiggle the detent lever up/down while checking -- That should-otta be OK--Is the rectum - fire, good -and the resistor ? Ron Rich
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Post by vaguy22 on Dec 29, 2016 1:06:07 GMT
Tested to ground infinate on both sides of coil. diode is ok resistor is a120 ohm i/2 watt it reads 138 ohms. thanks again Norman
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 29, 2016 4:10:43 GMT
Norman--I would guess from what you have tested, that the coil/ trip wiring was OK ? I can't imagine how the coil can be powered withouT a 2050 tube installed--UNLESS--Just thunked of this far-out thing--are you removing the correct (detent/trip) 2050 (The hidden one under the PA ) ?? Ron Rich
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Post by robnyc on Dec 29, 2016 5:51:17 GMT
First off, I should have proofed my post regarding the coil impedance, it should be approx 250 ohms...so you are OK there.
Norman, the resistance you feel when trying to press the trip lever down is just the normal resistance of the cam lobe interacting with the spring on the cam follower associated with the trip lever. My point being it may be a typical dry/sticky clutch and not electrical.
Rob
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 29, 2016 15:17:41 GMT
Hi Rob, Norman-- Rob, you did write, "250 ohms" ?? Norman, If you are removing the correct 2050, then my guess is that Rob has diagnosed this problem correctly. I do however wonder about one more thing--is there an Autospeed plugged into this system, and if so, which model ? You might also try the following--remove a record, select that space, and turn the power off, just as the record lift arm starts up. With the power off, turn the motor coupling to the point that the clamp arm is fully into the turn table--then continue, well past the point the needle should be on the record--If the the needle lifts up, your problem IS mechanical. Ron Rich
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Post by vaguy22 on Dec 29, 2016 19:52:28 GMT
The resistance is the lever trying to go UP. so the solenoid IS energized. Mech was totally cleaned and oiled NOTHING is gummed up correct 2050 the bottom one. Autospeed unit is gone Ron, will try postioning mech as you said and see the results.will get back to you later this evening.Thanks guys Norman
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 29, 2016 22:30:34 GMT
Hi Norman, IMHO, there ain't no-way the solenoid can remain powered if the correct 2050 is not in it's socket ? Did you attempt that "test" above--what were the results You say you cleaned/oiled the mech--with what type oil ? I assume this was done recently -- did you remove the clutch assembly, and check the clutch yoke pin ? This "sounds" like a frozen clutch yoke/ #2 detent lever--- Do you have a copy of the correct Service Manual, and, my "Seeburg Mech Guide" ?
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 29, 2016 22:33:43 GMT
Hi All, I sure do not know how that "emonocom" got into the above post/ place--but it's ab-so-lutly correct !!!
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Post by vaguy22 on Dec 30, 2016 15:32:45 GMT
when i push down on trip lever i get a buzzing sound so it is electrical not mechanical I have both manuals mech lubricated with 20 weight 3 weeks ago. will work on this again tonight and report back then. on the low voltage rectifier, what is the correct DC voltage? Thanks Norman
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Post by Ron Rich on Dec 30, 2016 17:19:55 GMT
Hi Norman, Yep--if buzzing, gottabe electrical--do you have a copy of the Service Manual--follow the "ground" side--goes straight to the 2050 tube ?? If by low voltage rectifier, you are speaking of the one in the TSU, it's a nominal 20 vdc ( 17-30 seems to be OK) If you are speaking of the one on the mechanism--it's connected to the 155 v supply.
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