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Post by jeffinmn on Apr 23, 2018 1:37:45 GMT
I was reading Ron Rich's Seeburg Mechanism Guide and it states on page 17 that tube type Tormat's are are supposed to have a fuse F1 (also shown in the schematic diagram) connected to the lowest terminal on the terminal strip on the right which connects through the fuse to ground. On mine these is a wire. Does this wire take the place of a fuse? A 5 amp AGC fuse has a pretty thick element in it. Or, did someone replace the fuse with a wire, which is what I suspect. Please see the picture. Also, is there a small in line fuse holder available for locations such as this? Attachments:
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 23, 2018 4:31:15 GMT
Jeff,
What you have there is a "NoBlo" fuse ! How it got there ?? I have seen that foolishness done before--use a GJV-5 fuse. If you don't have one, make one out of a piece or two of wire, and an AGC-5--or use a fuse holder, if you like. If this fuse ever blows, you have serious problems and you MUST fix it-- BEFORE-- replacing that fuse ! Ron Rich
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Post by jeffinmn on Apr 23, 2018 14:53:33 GMT
I added a AGC5 fuse as shown in the picture below. Is it correct that an AGC5 is a 5 amp fuse? I'm wondering how the fuse was attached at the factory. The way I have it looks like a kludge. Do you have any suggestions for installing this neater? The yellow wires are connected to each side of the fuse. I also notice that you recommend adding a 1 amp fuse to the wire for the trip coil. Dr. Know It All had the same recommendation. He suggested connecting a fuse to the black wire which goes to the top pin on the terminal. You recommend connecting a fuse to the white wire which goes to the second pin on the terminal strip. The top pin also a resistor connected to the silicon rectifier. Does it matter which wire of the trip coil that the fuse is connected to? Attachments:
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Post by jeffinmn on Apr 25, 2018 1:27:57 GMT
Any answers for this question?
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 25, 2018 2:46:38 GMT
Yep--I answered it yesterday ??
I'll try again--
Seeburg used a GJV-5 there, which is a 5 amp fuse that had pig tails attached by the fuse maker--looks almost the same as what you constructed.
The added 1 amo fuse goes in SERIES with the coil's white wire--I usually split the connection between the incoming (usually white/or)wire, and the coil's white wire, at the junction on the terminal strip.
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Post by jeffinmn on Apr 25, 2018 15:06:05 GMT
I added the fuse (see Picture). Are there any other places you recommend a fuse be added? Attachments:
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 25, 2018 18:38:51 GMT
Jeff,
Do you have a V, or a XV 200 ?
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Post by jeffinmn on Apr 25, 2018 18:46:52 GMT
I have the v200 with first version of selection receiver with the 2D21 tubes.
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 25, 2018 19:17:20 GMT
OK--that is the V--XV is the updated unit-- I have not added any fusing to this model--I suppose I would, if it were mine, add a 2.5-2.8 SB fuse in series with the transformer line feed in the TSR.I would also add a 7.5 amp fuse on the 24 vac line. if I was not using an electronic latch bar solenoid protector, I would dd a 3 amp fuse AT, the latch bar solenoid. Ron Rich
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Post by jeffinmn on Apr 25, 2018 19:45:49 GMT
I do have an electronic latch bar solenoid protector that releases if a second button isn't pressed after 8 seconds. The solenoid doesn't latch until the first button is pressed. Thanks for your recommendations for fuses.
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 25, 2018 22:41:39 GMT
Kool--that ( as far as I'm concerned), is the ONLY way to fly ! Ron Rich
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Post by jeffinmn on Apr 26, 2018 3:51:28 GMT
What are your thoughts on replacing the selenium rectifiers in the mech and selection receiver?
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 26, 2018 11:26:17 GMT
Jeff,
To whom are you speaking ?
If me-- I pretty much go by the old saying-"-iffin it ainn broke, don't fizzit" !
Ron Rich
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Post by jeffinmn on Apr 26, 2018 13:50:50 GMT
Ron, I like that answer a lot. Some people have said selenium rectifiers should be replaced by diodes but I find diodes to be more likely to fail if something else goes wrong.
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 26, 2018 14:00:53 GMT
Jeff,
In my humble opinion, judging from my experience, reliability of selenium units is very good. Reliability of 'diodes' is "iffy" ! If good silicone diodes, better -- BUT, when replacing a selenium with a diode one must consider that the selenium seldom (never ?), fail, shorted, while diodes do ! In other words--a fuse should be added when changing over --- Ron Rich
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