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Post by angelo on Apr 30, 2018 18:55:15 GMT
Hello friends of the jukebox world,. have a question, I’m restoring a Seeburg LS325. I’m in the process of recapping the TSA8 amp. It has 2 blown resistors on the bridge coming from the 8/10 fuse they are black and say 183 on them can’t seem to find what resistance they are have scamatic but it’s way to blurred to see any help would be greatly appreciate thanks angelo
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 30, 2018 20:52:47 GMT
I have no idea, and don't have a TSA-8 to look at here--posting a photo would help--maybe ?
Ron Rich
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Post by robnyc on Apr 30, 2018 21:26:40 GMT
Hello friends of the jukebox world,. have a question, I’m restoring a Seeburg LS325. I’m in the process of recapping the TSA8 amp. It has 2 blown resistors on the bridge coming from the 8/10 fuse they are black and say 183 on them can’t seem to find what resistance they are have scamatic but it’s way to blurred to see any help would be greatly appreciate thanks angelo I'm not sure if those a re resistors you are talking about -they might be the diodes. Here is a scan of the TSA7 (click to enlarge) www.flickr.com/photos/90641375@N06/37951004425/ -except for the heavier transformers it is the same. I'll dig out a TSA8 here when I get back. RobNYC |
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Post by angelo on Apr 30, 2018 21:38:00 GMT
Thanks it did not look like a resistor diode makes sense to me just don’t know what the 183 means thanks
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Post by angelo on Apr 30, 2018 23:10:01 GMT
Found out who ever tried to fix this amp before me put the 2700 uf in back words it blew the 8/10 fuse and both diodes I don’t have much experience with diodes just always restored jukes mechanically mechs and cabinet work and maybe a cap kit here and there amps always seemed to be fine still researching those 2 183 diodes so I know for the next time thanks evertbody
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Post by Ron Rich on Apr 30, 2018 23:31:12 GMT
Angelo,
The 183 is most likely a "mfg. code date". You will never find them that way. 1n4007 diodes will do just fine there. What makes you think the ones there are bad ? Ron Rich
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Post by angelo on May 1, 2018 0:17:40 GMT
ron thank you so much  one was broken in half laying at bottom of amp were broken in halfand no reading on 2nd one thanks Attachments:
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Post by angelo on May 1, 2018 0:18:48 GMT
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Post by Ron Rich on May 1, 2018 0:29:42 GMT
Angelo,
Attza great reason to suspect they are bad ! Ron Rich
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Post by angelo on May 1, 2018 0:37:32 GMT
thanks again so i could replace those with the 1n4007 diodes and should be fine ron you da man!!! thanks
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Post by robnyc on May 1, 2018 2:41:05 GMT
thanks again so i could replace those with the 1n4007 diodes and should be fine ron you da man!!! thanks Not so fast, Angelo. Unless you have replaced that capacitor it is advisable that a current limiting bulb be used in series with the power input. The reason is that a cap subjected to a severe reverse-polarity "trauma" my become permanently or intermittently shorted. I'd use no more than a 40 bulb in series and let the amp run w/out input for at least a half-hour. Since the cans of all the caps are 'hot" with respect to chassis, I always put several layers of tape around those that are held in bare metal clamps. Good luck. RobNYC |
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Post by angelo on May 1, 2018 3:07:11 GMT
Thanks Ron I took the old cap out and replaced it with a new 2700 uf 50v cap with it going to the right polarity now ordered cap kit and diodes recapped the control center it selects like butter now and mech I was torn down to nub and cleaned lubed it scans and picks up perfect and you my friend get a shout out because I learned all this from your book the Bible of mech’s thanks
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Post by angelo on May 1, 2018 3:08:32 GMT
And thanks rob you guys are great
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Post by Ron Rich on May 1, 2018 12:23:18 GMT
Angelo,
Glad you have it running--and happy to hear the Mechanism Guide helped ! Ron Rich
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