|
Post by clayton on Jan 8, 2017 20:59:01 GMT
Hey all, Looking for some advice! Just got a library unit in pretty good condition, I reoiled according to the manual using TIOMO, (although I am having a difficult time getting to the items on the back since I haven't yet removed the mechanism from the enclosure, specifically the items in the clutch). The mechanism is all the way on the right hand side, in front of the pre-amp, and won't scan from that position when powered on. I was hoping to shift it a few positions so I can better oil the clutch, but it won't get to the right cycle. It will pickup / play / return a record of it is in that position, but it never seems to engage the scan, and just continues the pickup, play, return cycle. When I first turned it on it did move from left to right once, but never did again. After looking at the manual, I believe all signs are pointing to the cam switch,and sure enough, the bottom contact (D?) looks bent out of shape and maybe missing a spacer or contact. I've included a picture of the bent cam switch linked below, anyone know what exactly I am missing, and is this a straight forward repairan or should I just replace the part? Or maybe I am on the wrong trail for this issue? drive.google.com/file/d/0ByW-qFvHy3wPSDdqMnBHWl91cTQ/view?usp=drivesdkThanks for any help! Much appreciated!! -Clayton
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Jan 9, 2017 0:32:44 GMT
Hi Clayton, I have no idea what TIOMO is--Seeburg oil is 20 wt. ND, and I strongly suggest no other oil be used. The "D" contact on most of the non Tormat mechanisms is the motor carry-over contact--which, if so looks correct to me ? It would appear to me from what you have written, that you have a mechanical problem in the clutch area, or safety plunger area--Do you have the Manual package--If so ( if not, see the FAQ's above for a suppliers list), locate that area I would also humbly suggest that although I did NOT specifically cover the LU models, my Seeburg Mechanism Guide, basically does cover that model with the first 100 select models. The only mech difference I can think of is the "selection system".( If you would like, I do sell the guide directly--message/email me)
|
|
|
Post by jukeboxmarty on Jan 9, 2017 0:37:48 GMT
TIOMO = Three In One Motor Oil???
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Jan 9, 2017 0:53:34 GMT
Perfect !! Be sure to get both motor cups, if so equipped (depends on motor brand)--If only one, the top bearing felt MUST be saturated !! Ron Rich
|
|
|
Post by clayton on Jan 16, 2017 2:52:52 GMT
I used the term TIOMO from the frequently asked questions, hah, but yea, the motor oil.
Thanks for the advice that the cam switch was a red herring. I'm surprised the bottom of the cam switch is supposed to be bent like that, but sure enough I saw other pictures of cam switches and they bend too.
Followed Rich's advice and checked the plunger and clutch. Unfortunately I had to remove the magazine, so that's gonna be fun to re align!
Plunger plunges all the way across, although it seems a bit slow when I engage the safety trip lever (it's instant if I just pull the plunger itself). Guessing it's okay.
I got the clutch off, mostly because I wanted to make sure it was in good shape, busted the lock washer, so gotta run to home depot.
I'll let you all know how the clutch adjustments go, it's sitting in a hot bath degreasing right now. Hopefully she'll be walking the base soon!
-C
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Jan 16, 2017 4:02:53 GMT
Hi Clayton, Not sure if I follow you--if by "safety trip lever", if you are speaking of the safety plunger detent (actuating) lever, it is (like most of that mechanism) using a "cam follower" to move it in one direction and a spring to close it The springs pull it in the direction of the stripper plate as the clutch moves from the transfer to scan phase. At the transfer point as soon as the record passes the travel path of the plunger,you should be able to move the lever and have it snap towards all the way closed. If no snap is heard--lever pivot is "gunk-ed up"-- Ron Rich
|
|
|
Post by clayton on Jan 16, 2017 5:04:44 GMT
Hey Rich,
Thanks for the quick response. I follow what you're saying. I'll try to use the part names as found in the manual to be more clear. First I've completed 'safety lever 1' adjustment with no issues. With respect to the safety plunger:
1. If I pull the plunger itself, nice snap. 2. If I pull the control arm downward (so the safety trip pivot is free to move, and I engage the detent lever, I get a nice snap. 3. If I pull the control lever down manually and release it, it's a slower engagement of the detent lever, no snap. I assumed this was okay since it's on a roller anyway and if it rocketed across it would probably hurt the record..
If it is gunked though, I'm definitely going to need your manual. I was brave enough to pull the clutch out but I'm definitely not trying to pull out the control arm with just the engineers service manual!
-C
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Jan 16, 2017 15:27:08 GMT
Hi Clayton, It sounds as if the detent arm pivot, is gummed up. Flip off the retaining ring (aka "e washer" ) and flat washer--SLIGHTLY pull detent lever out, slip some "TIOMO", onto the rear of the shaft and into the hole on the front of the arm-- "work" it in well, add a drop more, and that whole thing should now "snap", when hand operated ! Another thought--be sure, that the area of the casting the back of the safety plunger hits, is clean--once in awhile this area becomes "sticky". Contact me off forum, at: ronnnrich@yahoo.com , if you wish to purchase a copy of my "Seeburg Mechanism Guide" Ron Rich
|
|
|
Post by clayton on Jan 21, 2017 17:02:14 GMT
Thanks Ron,
It was definitely the safety plunger, the safety plunger adjustment I made just wasn't that great, which made the spring action a bit too slow. I also taped a nickel to the clutch case where the plunger head hits to reduce the amount of travel for the safety plunger while still allowing both functions to operate. Thanks for everything. Now I gotta figure out the amplifier!
Side note: I was amazed at how easy the magazine reinstall was for the library units. I've read horror stories getting them to re align, but this unit was a breeze.
-C
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Jan 21, 2017 20:32:51 GMT
Hi Clayton, I think I would remove that Nickel--Might just decide to gum up and stick the plunger to the tape ? Seeburg used that arrangement on "millions" of mechanisms--never required any more "spacing" ? Glad you got lucky--I have fought aligning the record rack on way too many occasions--NOT fun, so I recommend the rack never be removed on a Seeburg Mechanism. As for the Amp--hope you have small fingers !!
|
|