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Post by paradisecs on Aug 27, 2018 3:35:08 GMT
My father-in-law has an STD-160 that when on plays every record in order one way, then the other, and then repeats the process. It's acting like a battery test was done on it except that it never stops. We have left it on for 8 hours straight and it just loops the entire rack; at least the music is good. Before I dive in I thought I'd check and see if anyone had a clue what might cause this. The plan is to recap the amp and dcc but so far all I've done is lube it to make sure it worked.
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Post by Ron Rich on Aug 27, 2018 13:04:08 GMT
Stephen,
PayPal $ 100.00 to my email address, and I'll 'splain you how to fix that problem in less then 30 seconds ! So simple, even your Father in law, should be able to do it in less then a minute ! (lol) Ron Rich
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Post by Ron Rich on Aug 27, 2018 13:10:22 GMT
Stephen,
OK--I don't see the payment--but I'll trust you will do it--
Unplug the two RCA plugs from the side of the service switch assembly--plug them back in. Unplug the "Tormat" RCA plug from the DCC--plug it back in--you have, most likely, just fixed this problem ! Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Aug 27, 2018 13:59:32 GMT
Thanks Ron. I'll go try it today while he's out of town. Then I can be the genius.
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Post by Ron Rich on Aug 27, 2018 14:18:58 GMT
Yea--and you'll put a check in the mail, just as soon as it's fixed ! lol--
Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Aug 29, 2018 3:25:22 GMT
Well I did as you said and it didn't change anything. I unplugged both plugs from the service switch, plugged them in, unplugged from the DCC and plugged it in. The mech kept going to the next record. I tried it a few times and then, since I had nothing better to do, I got creative with the order of plugging and unplugging the three plugs and nothing changed. I even tried a "reverse" battery test and no change was observed.
If what you suggested had worked, why would it have worked? Or why didn't it? Is it possible to have all the tormat rivets constantly charged by a fault somewhere in the DCC? I did go ahead and check the voltages on the TB3100 points and everything seemed to be within specs.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Aug 29, 2018 3:50:51 GMT
Stephen,
That situation is caused about 99% of the time by an open ground on one of those RCA plug/Jacks. Look carefully at the solder connectors on the plugs--there should be two "wires" soldered to the rings on each plug -- One is the shield, the other a plastic coated 18 gauge wire. Measure the TMU loop starting t the DCC. It should read about 3 ohms. Did this problem just "happen" or is this a phono just acquired ? Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Aug 29, 2018 21:17:07 GMT
We got it a while ago with a bunch of others but it's had this symptom from the first time we turned it on. I thought it might be a ground issue just wasn't sure where to look. I'm taking the kids back to grandmas tomorrow so I'll check it then. At some point I'll recap the dcc and amp but that is low on priority right now.
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Post by Ron Rich on Aug 29, 2018 22:33:01 GMT
Stephen,
Which DCC and what Code unit is installed in this phono ? Check it, and let me know the letter on the 311125 power board, and which relay, is in it ? Ron Rich
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Post by robnyc on Aug 29, 2018 23:28:20 GMT
Stephen, Which DCC and what Code unit is installed in this phono ? Check it, and let me know the letter on the 311125 power board, and which relay, is in it ? Ron Rich Ron, I know this happens when the HV regulation fails partially in the old tube units, though the source voltage is lower I suspect a 150V zener open might cause excessive write-in here too. RobNYC |
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Post by Ron Rich on Aug 30, 2018 3:04:19 GMT
Hi Rob,
No 150 VZD in this system---from what he has written, I suspect a poor ground, or,.003, or .005 cap in the SCR circuit.
Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Sept 1, 2018 21:53:49 GMT
DCC 4-2 Code A. Board code D with 24v relay.
So it seems to be fixed, at least for now. I removed the old solder on the tormat plug and re-soldered the black wire and the bare wires back to the shield of the plug. That solved the immediate issue of constant playing. It still had a pricing unit installed in the black box but wouldn't give credit when dropping coins in. Pulled the board to put it in free-play and it's working. I'll see if I can figure out the coin to credit issue later.
The wires looked fine but must have had a crack in the solder. Part of me wishes this didn't fix it so I could see where you were going with it.
Thanks again for the help.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Sept 1, 2018 23:09:27 GMT
Stephen,
Going "no-wheres" with it--that's always an open/poor, ground on the TMU sense wire ! Do you have a copy of my "Seeburg MicroLog Trouble Shooting Guide" ? Contact me off forum if you would like to purchase one. You say you had a "pricing unit" installed in the DTP-1 ? Are you sure it was not a price programmer ? Did you check for +8 vdc on the credit lines ?? Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Sept 2, 2018 18:02:23 GMT
Thanks Ron. I have both your guides and use them daily. I knew of the poor ground on the sense wire but everything toned out with continuity. My guess is it was a cold solder issue on the black wire. After removing all the old solder with a sucker and then stripping the black wire back about 1/4" I applied all new solder and that's when it started working. I'm going to just do that on all of them from now on as a first step. As for the pricing unit, yes I used the wrong term. I'll go over credit lines later.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Sept 2, 2018 23:26:47 GMT
Stephen,
You can not check the "continuity" of that with a light ! It will have "continuity", with the outside (18 ga.) wire disconnected, due to the shield (other then in the one case sited in the MicroLog Trouble Shooting Guide). Ron Rich
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