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Post by paradisecs on Sept 23, 2018 4:29:19 GMT
I'd like to be able to power on the chasis lights on a jukebox but leave the amp and other circuits off. Is that possible with a replacement DPDT toggle or does it require a secondary switch? Ideally what I'd like is a switch that goes off---->chasis on-----> chasis and circuits on. That way I could leave it in the middle position to just power the fluorescent tubes and flip it up one more notch if anyone wanted music.
Stephen
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Post by robnyc on Sept 23, 2018 6:30:35 GMT
My approach to the machines at home is to use an external switch for the machine cord and plug the lights directly into the outlet in the cabinet. This way the external is master and the receiver sw only controls the electronics & mech.
As far as I know, there is no commonly available single switch that will allow "pile-on" operation that you desire. You could use a 120vac relay and use a center-off switch. Here the relay would add the lights when the switch was in the 'all" position. Another consideration is the clearance behind the switch body and chassis. Multipole switches are typically deeper than simple SPST types.
Personally, i avoid making things more complicated than need be....Building up systems destined for use by the public curbs one's enthusiasm for adding "features". Every knob or switch will sooner or later be a service call.
RobNYC
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Post by Ron Rich on Sept 23, 2018 12:34:57 GMT
Stephen,
Something in my feeble mind says that there is such a switch ?? Check with an electronics store. On the Seeburg, models LPC-1, thru SMC, there is plenty of room for a larger replacement switch--but as Rob said--it is probably a service call waiting to happen, as I have not seen any good switches in a long time--all "made in Mexico"-- and fail often ! Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Sept 23, 2018 16:27:04 GMT
Thanks again for all the info. This is on my personal STD160 so I'm not too worried about service calls and unfortunately where it sits in the house there is limited access to ac switches and outlets.
Rob, you mentioned DPDT center off, I'd forgotten about that and was fixated on Off - ON - ON in a cascade. Is the relay needed then? Wire the lights to the down pole and everything else to the up pole but also pigtail back to the lights? It would be like breaking the tab off an ac outlet to make them independent.
I'll send my ideas over to the group at allaboutcircuits and see what they come up with.
Stephen
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Post by robnyc on Sept 23, 2018 23:13:29 GMT
Rob, you mentioned DPDT center off, I'd forgotten about that and was fixated on Off - ON - ON in a cascade. Is the relay needed then? Wire the lights to the down pole and everything else to the up pole but also pigtail back to the lights? It would be like breaking the tab off an ac outlet to make them independent. Stephen No, it isn't. Think about it for a minute. if you place lights on a separate set of contacts and electronics on the other, they stay separate. If you run a "pigtail" they are essentially combined again at either switch position. The relay coil would be connected to the AC for the electronics position and it's contacts would bridge the lights switch contacts when the relay was pulled in (switch in position to power the electronics). The two circuits -must- be kept electrically separate. If you can find a switch that piles-on the two as it is advanced, that would work. RobNYC |
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Post by paradisecs on Sept 24, 2018 15:51:11 GMT
Here is the diagram for the switch I had help with. What do you think? I think I see the issue and it is with the wiring of the cabinet as it exists rather than the switch. The wiring would need to be isolated and currently it all goes to the ac outlets in the cabinet as a single circuit. Minor AC wiring issue but still a problem, correct?  |
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Post by Ron Rich on Sept 24, 2018 19:40:13 GMT
Stephen,
I have no idea what "L-1" is,what it's for, or what the LED is for, nor if it would light, nor if the lamp transformer could operate ?
IF I were attempting this, I think I would wire the line outlet that the flasher transformer uses, as a "service" out let ( always hot), add an in line fuse, and if desired, another toggle switch ( there MAY be room in the power cord indent to do this ?),for that outlet. Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Sept 24, 2018 23:15:48 GMT
Ron,
L = Load, N = Neutral. The diagram was for some LED controls but the circuit remains the same. A DPDT center off is like having two separate switches so it should work. The issue currently is the way the original wiring is done puts all the internal outlets on the same circuit. I have to address that rewire before the switch would work, so for now this will be on hold until I get around to changing the ballasts to instant-on versions so I can use LED tube lights. That isn't a cheap upgrade when doing all three tubes. At least I have an idea, which is more than I had two days ago.
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Sept 24, 2018 23:31:23 GMT
Hi Stephen, Sure--if "LED" represents the power transformer for the flashers--it shood- outta, work ! Changing the outlet shood- outta be easy too--just pull off the 4 hex head screws holding the enclosure--find the wire coming from the switch to that outlet--cut it right there, and splice it to the new switch --Ron Rich  |
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Post by robnyc on Sept 25, 2018 0:09:58 GMT
Here is the diagram for the switch I had help with. What do you think? I think I see the issue and it is with the wiring of the cabinet as it exists rather than the switch. The wiring would need to be isolated and currently it all goes to the ac outlets in the cabinet as a single circuit. Minor AC wiring issue but still a problem, correct? Yes, that will work. My mistake. Rob |
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