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Post by jukeboxdj on Oct 15, 2018 17:42:07 GMT
For background: I have only recently bought the jukebox and it worked fine when I viewed it and also once I had it home. In the past couple of weeks however a fault has cropped up on it. Originally it displayed it as ER30 and I guess it might still be that but I’m not sure and I wondered if any of you with more experience than me have any ideas or have come across it before... I’ve cleared the faults and now when it’s happening there doesn’t seem to be an error code.
I have, as I thought it was a true ER30 issue, already removed, cleaned and put back the optical sensor. I then measured and adjusted the ‘I’ and ‘H’ settings. The ‘I’ voltage during scan was a little low at around 2.7v but is now around the 3.6v -ish. The ‘H’ was fine.
There are no issues with selection, it is during play that this fault crops up. During play, either side, occasionally the turntable motor stops and it sometimes sounds like the solenoids either side of the selector arm are activated/deactivated just before the motor starts again. When the turntable starts up again everything is fine. It’s difficult to tell for sure what is happening because it doesn’t happen on every record so I can’t always be there when it does. I’ll try to monitor the mech board LEDs and see if anything happens there whilst the error occurs.
It could be my imagination but it does seem like it’s happening less since I upped the voltage on the scan. I haven’t given it a good run to know for sure though and it doesn’t seem to matter how long it’s been running anyway.
Yesterday for most of the day it was fine, just playing up in the evening. From cold this morning it happened so I don’t think it’s a heat issue and the turntable motor isn’t getting hot so I’m guessing the biggest clue is around the solenoids thinking they should be operating and the mech board is maybe telling the TT motor to stop. Without seeing the LEDs though I’m not sure and it happens so briefly I’m not sure I’d see it anyway!
Any ideas are very welcome!
Thanks
Phil
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Post by jukeboxdj on Oct 15, 2018 19:54:09 GMT
For background: I have only recently bought the jukebox and it worked fine when I viewed it and also once I had it home. In the past couple of weeks however a fault has cropped up on it. Originally it displayed it as ER30 and I guess it might still be that but I’m not sure and I wondered if any of you with more experience than me have any ideas or have come across it before... I’ve cleared the faults and now when it’s happening there doesn’t seem to be an error code. I have, as I thought it was a true ER30 issue, already removed, cleaned and put back the optical sensor. I then measured and adjusted the ‘I’ and ‘H’ settings. The ‘I’ voltage during scan was a little low at around 2.7v but is now around the 3.6v -ish. The ‘H’ was fine. There are no issues with selection, it is during play that this fault crops up. During play, either side, occasionally the turntable motor stops and it sometimes sounds like the solenoids either side of the selector arm are activated/deactivated just before the motor starts again. When the turntable starts up again everything is fine. It’s difficult to tell for sure what is happening because it doesn’t happen on every record so I can’t always be there when it does. I’ll try to monitor the mech board LEDs and see if anything happens there whilst the error occurs. It could be my imagination but it does seem like it’s happening less since I upped the voltage on the scan. I haven’t given it a good run to know for sure though and it doesn’t seem to matter how long it’s been running anyway. Yesterday for most of the day it was fine, just playing up in the evening. From cold this morning it happened so I don’t think it’s a heat issue and the turntable motor isn’t getting hot so I’m guessing the biggest clue is around the solenoids thinking they should be operating and the mech board is maybe telling the TT motor to stop. Without seeing the LEDs though I’m not sure and it happens so briefly I’m not sure I’d see it anyway! Any ideas are very welcome! Thanks Phil Update - the TT motor led definitely turns off so the mech board is stopping the drive motor, the latter isn’t just stalling. The question, I guess, is why the mech board is stopping the motor? As it restarts it seems to be actuating the left hand solenoid on the transfer mechanism briefly. |
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 16, 2018 1:45:25 GMT
Hi Phil,
I would suspect one of the cam MicroSwitches is failing ! Check-um-- If you don't know how, see our FAQ's section--
Ron Rich
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Post by jukeboxdj on Oct 16, 2018 4:24:24 GMT
Thanks for the tip Ron, I appreciate it 👍🏻
I’ll take a look next weekend when I have some time to dig around in there!
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Post by amiman66 on Oct 16, 2018 12:54:39 GMT
Hello Phil,
I would check the sprag wheel and the stem bushing for any slap. Have you adjusted the mechanical adjustment for the opto switch before doing the electronic adjustment.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Post by jukeboxdj on Oct 16, 2018 19:06:16 GMT
Hello Phil, I would check the sprag wheel and the stem bushing for any slap. Have you adjusted the mechanical adjustment for the opto switch before doing the electronic adjustment. Regards Alan Alan Hood ami-man UK Hi Alan I think I’m about at the end of my working knowledge once I’ve tested the microswitches! If the switches are ok it might have to be a repair from someone with a bit of experience! |
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 16, 2018 20:50:03 GMT
Alan,
Why would the "opto" have anything to do with the tt motor ?
Ron Rich
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Post by jukeboxdj on Oct 16, 2018 21:48:40 GMT
Hi Alan
I did the mechanical opto check before and after the meter check, once I cleaned it. I found what seemed like a big window for the home light to illuminate in though and I did wonder if I’d done it right but it picked the correct record every time. However it started to play up around the selection later last night too. It wasn’t picking the wrong record but it seemed to rotate the mag for one record, then again, then again, then seemed to sort itself out and go off to find the correct selection. I have a video of it. The detent led lit up at this time too. It’s definitely not a happy bunny at the moment.
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 16, 2018 22:38:26 GMT
Phil,
Intermittences in these phono's are often traced back to the plugs/hedders--did you read the sticky above about Rowe plugs ? Did you read the sticky in our FAQ's section on "Micro Switches" ?
Ron Rich
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Post by jukeboxdj on Oct 17, 2018 6:18:38 GMT
Phil, Intermittences in these phono's are often traced back to the plugs/hedders--did you read the sticky above about Rowe plugs ? Did you read the sticky in our FAQ's section on "Micro Switches" ? Ron Rich Hi Ron I read both stickies and I’ve ordered an analogue meter (I only have a digital at the moment). I’ll take a look at the plugs and headers at the weekend and I should have the meter by Saturday too so I can play around with the microswitches. Thanks for the help both of you I really appreciate it. I’m quite happy to have a go myself (up to a point!)to resolve it and every day is a school day! Phil |
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Post by Ron Rich on Oct 17, 2018 12:37:11 GMT
Phil,
I am confident you will soon have a great sounding/playing Rowe !
Ron Rich
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Post by amiman66 on Oct 17, 2018 13:43:52 GMT
I agree with Ron that you need to check all the header pins and suggest that you start on the Mechanism Control to check for dry joints (called cold joints in the USA) around the pins, look for any cracking around the solder on the pins. Have a look at the plugs, I usually look at the connections with a light behind the plug, look for any excessive gaps. To be honest I always remove every connector in turn on the plugs and retention every connection one at a time.
If you can not sort out the issue I suggest that you send your CCC & Mechanism Control and the loom from the CCC to Mechanism Control for testing/repair.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Post by jukeboxdj on Oct 18, 2018 18:01:22 GMT
Thanks both!
I have the analogue meter already and I might get a little time tomorrow as well as at the weekend to take a look.
I used to produce a number of dry joints on Veroboard back in the day when I was learning how to solder - when I could see without glasses and my inside leg measurement was greater than my waist measurement! - however with a magnifying glass if I’m really stuck I should be able to see if the joints are truly dry. They’re dull and pitted as opposed to smooth and shiny if my memory serves me correctly from my time as an apprentice here in the UK. They’re probably all dull with age now I guess but I should still be able to see if they’re a smooth or rough finish.
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Post by amiman66 on Oct 19, 2018 12:57:00 GMT
Hello Phil,
You are looking for cracks in the solder around the pins.
Being as you are in the UK,
It might be an idea to send your boards to me in the UK for testing/repair.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
Games Unlimited
UK
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Post by jukeboxdj on Oct 19, 2018 13:02:37 GMT
Hello Phil, You are looking for cracks in the solder around the pins. Being as you are in the UK, It might be an idea to send your boards to me in the UK for testing/repair. Regards Alan Alan Hood Games Unlimited UK Hi Alan Thanks, I’ll start with the mech control board this weekend and see how it looks. If I decide it’s not a job for me I’ll definitely give you a call. Do you stock things like the microswitches, gears etc? Regards Phil |
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