SPU1 contact "adjustment" AFTER READING the faq section

[vipertblck]

yes, I read the faq section. on my SPU1 I wanna check and adjust if need contacts Y & Z in the timing relay.  the book mentions pressure and gap. at rest position contact y is closed and z is open. both require a 1/32" gap, and both require 1.0-1.5 oz pressure. my questions are as follows.

1-what exactly is this 1/32" gap? at rest for example contact z is open, does this mean there should be a 1/32" gap there in it's resting state? if not, adjust the blade and "bias" it the entire length as stated in the faq? same applies for contact y when the timing relay opens it?  how could one check a normally closed contact; when the relay is energized it would open the normally closed contact and create the gap, how does one know how much to manually open it when setting the gap? the amount I open it to set gap could be far different from the amount the relay will open it when energized.

2-how and what is contact pressure? these both are 1-1.5 oz; do I just take an oz gauge and place it against the blade and move it; expecting it to be within the specified range?

thanks

kevin

[Ron Rich]

Kevin,
1. Yes--You check a NC contact's air gap by manually pushing down on the relay's armature--it only will go so far--
2. Yes--probably not necessary, if you don't add pressure-- As for the coil adjustment--the front bracket must be "adjusted" too--it must "butt-up" against the coil. The "Detent coil" is labeled as "Trip coil" and is shown on page 2144 of the B manual--adjust the SPU coil the same way--but you MUST have the brass inserted in it correctly, first ! Ron Rich

[vipertblck]

what's the best method for setting/checking this gap? feeler gauges or something like a set of pin gauges?

[Ron Rich]

Kevin,
Which is your best eye ? Use it--this is not that critical--WIPE is much more critical--check the mechanism, contact pages, of a Service Manual--one or more has a reference guide. Ron Rich

[vipertblck]

hah, ok. think I got it pretty good. in my BL manual it says the same thing, but MAX, 1/32 max. if I set them at about .030-.032 I think we'd be ok and in the range, right? the contact i'm adjusting still has it's wiping action as you mentioned.

[Ron Rich]

Kevin,
Yes sir--did you find the cap on the SPU timing relay, yet ?
Ron Rich

[vipertblck]

if it's what I think it is, we're looking for a capacitor on the timing relay in the SPU, have to check again once i'm home. I believe I know what this is, it's tied right into the actual relay coil (that measured 400 ohms) at the solder points.
kevin

[Ron Rich]

Kevin,
Yep--sounds as if it's bad--Use VERY low heat, when you replace it-- do not twist/bend connections on that relay--it will NOT "take it" !!
Ron Rich

[vipertblck]

ron

you said sounds as if its bad, meaning the symptoms of machine gunning i'm having would be present with a faulty/bad capacitor in the timing relay? is there a way to check/measure it? I think my dad had a capacitor checker at home but it's been a while, will have to ask. if no capacitor checker is available, is there any way to verify faulty operation? once i'm home tonight i'll look at the unit and relay the info i can read off the capacitor to verify the correct piece; i remember some stuff being printed on it.

kevin

[vipertblck]

the capacitor that's soldered directly to the timing relay has the following info on it.

-brown color
38H253
.05 +/- 10%
200 VDC
FAST
178829

[Ron Rich]

99% sure it's bad-- most are-- replace both of them ! Then you'll know there are good. Ron Rich

[vipertblck]

ron

"replace both o them"; only the one coordinates with the timing relay though, correct? the other one appears it deals somehow with the credit wheel??

kevin

[Ron Rich]

Could well be--replace both of them in both pricing units-- Ron Rich