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Post by paradisecs on Nov 8, 2018 2:25:10 GMT
I friend of my father-in-law heard I'd been working on Jukeboxes...all Seeburgs. So naturally he brought me the keypad a R85 and said that the entire second row of keys weren't selecting but the top row worked. I chuckled and said I'd look in to it. The keypad looks immaculate, no dirt, rust, the traces look brand new and the pins on the connector side aren't tarnished or show any signs of issues. He thought maybe I could clean the keypad and make it work but I assume this keypad plugs in to a digital controller and that is where the problem would be?
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Nov 8, 2018 3:55:38 GMT
Stephen,
What color is the actual switch body, on that unit ? Did you check the sticky above about common problems on Rowe's ??
Ron Rich
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Post by amiman66 on Nov 8, 2018 12:40:05 GMT
Hello Stephen,
On the Rowe Ami jukeboxes of this era the switches are black in colour, the shade of blue used on the earlier keyboards up to the 1979 Rowe Ami R-83.
It could just be a switch, use a meter to check for the operation of the switch.
If the switch tests OK the issue may well be on the header pins of the pricing board that have dry (cold joints USA)joints, just re-flow the top and bottom connections.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Post by Ron Rich on Nov 8, 2018 13:37:16 GMT
Hi Alan,
The older ones are blue ?? I never knew that--I always considered them to be gray ? Seriously, do you see two different "styles" of the blue-gray ones over there ? Here there two different buttons that show up--I suspect that one is OEM, and the other an aftermarket copy--just don't know which is which, or if Rowe just used two suppliers ?
Ron Rich
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Post by paradisecs on Nov 9, 2018 20:55:20 GMT
I'll check continuity on the keypad since it's all I have. I'll have to see if I can go look at the rest of the unit. Are all the keypad boards riveted so you can't take the board off the plate?
Stephen
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Post by Ron Rich on Nov 10, 2018 0:28:57 GMT
Stephen,
What's "riveted" to what ? I don't re-call seeing rivets on a Rowe keyboard-- The way I recall them, is you need to un-solder the keys from the PCB, first, then lift them out-- Ron Rich
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Post by amiman66 on Nov 13, 2018 12:58:26 GMT
Hi Alan, The older ones are blue ?? I never knew that--I always considered them to be gray ? Seriously, do you see two different "styles" of the blue-gray ones over there ? Here there two different buttons that show up--I suspect that one is OEM, and the other an aftermarket copy--just don't know which is which, or if Rowe just used two suppliers ? Ron Rich Hi Ron, On the R-80S, R-81 they tend to be blue/grey on the R-82 & R-83 they seem to be white or grey. All of these switches can be taken apart once removed from the circuit board. It is usually the two contact pins that are soldered into the board need a burnish, I use one of those fibre glass pencils lightly, sometimes one of the pins can be at a different level in switch that needs to be rectified. The black key switches also can be split to clean them, sometimes it works, i you can not get continuity then I change the switch for a new one. Regards Alan Alan Hood ami-man UK |
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