|
|
Post by paradisecs on Nov 23, 2018 19:35:49 GMT
Any recommendations on upgrading/replacing ballasts to electronic instead of the old magnetic? Is there a dummy plug for the starters or do you need to rewire and bypass that part of the old circuit? I have a unit that one of the ballasts is bad and I might as well upgrade to fast start ballasts so I can use LED tubes.
Stephen
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Nov 23, 2018 20:13:03 GMT
Stephen,
I have not "messed around" with electronic ballasts, other then the ones Rowe used on the WP-100 CD players. I know each lamp was individually fused on them, and if an "old" lamp was left in to "flicker", the fuse would always blow. This was a RPA on these models as the ballast assembly was "tucked" onto the rear wall, and you had to dis-assemble half of the phono to change the dam fuse ( I installed in-line fuses after the first time--brought them to an area easy to access!). Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by robnyc on Nov 24, 2018 8:30:45 GMT
Stephen. there are two main types of LED retrofit lamps;
Direct installation w/ballast retained. This is primarily for situations where labor costs are a factor. I can't see any point in using these in jukeboxes when rewiring is simple enough.
Ballast removed: As name implies the ballast is removed and the fixture is rewired. In most cases I've dealt with this means that power now comes to the lamp at one end only, the other is just support. This makes the most sense here, there is really no point in retaining a ballast.
The main problem with the LED tubes is that most have directional dispersion at just over 180 degrees. It can mean moving or remounting the sockets to get light where you want it. Always check the dispersion.
Another potential problem is RF noise from their crappy power supplies. One location I have installed 8ft LED retrofit tubes in the basement and it wiped out all FM reception in my sound rack and anywhere in the basement. We were left with either installing an outdoor antenna or going to streaming. It is for background/fill so the latter was chosen. It doesn't matter to my juke system as the machine was a Seeburg K and later replaced with MP3 player -both upstairs. However, in the same cabinet as a microprocessor juke, It might cause problems. I've read that others have had no problem with electronic ballasts in these machines, but nothing on the lamps with internal PSU.
RobNYC
RobNYC
|
|
|
|
Post by paradisecs on Nov 25, 2018 0:00:33 GMT
Thanks Rob. This is for a SPS160. I can do a new 4 bulb instant start ballast for cheap and rewire pretty easy. I'll just have to replace the sockets to get rid of the starters. I was hoping not to have to do that. I've replace tons of electronic starters with better instant start electronic ballasts but never had to deal with the separated starter. Interesting about the RF interference, I would have thought it would be better not worse than the old magnetic ballasts. I've looked at direct wire LED tubes but I've had too many electricians tell me to shy away from it.
Stephen
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Nov 25, 2018 4:05:34 GMT
Stephen,
Why, are you wishing to replace that lamp ? I think I would not do that, as you are very near the Amp, and hum is defiantly a problem in that compartment. Do you have the early or later style cabinet ( look at the support springs for the door--early, you can see them--late, they are covered with a white "pipe"). Do you still have the "hum shield" attached to the lamp (I hope so !). Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by paradisecs on Nov 26, 2018 3:31:26 GMT
Yes, the shield is there, didn't know it was for hum. I'm just looking long term and I don't think it will be to long before we can only get LED bulbs. As for the ballast, I have to replace it with something, but maybe I need to pull a unit from another box and move on.
Stephen
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Nov 26, 2018 13:17:30 GMT
Stephen,
IMHO, you will still be able to purchase that lamp 100 years from now--as for the ballast, it's readily available, from any good hardware store.
for about the same price as the lamp ! Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Nov 26, 2018 13:20:27 GMT
Stephen,
Be very careful, if you have the plastic door--put no "pressure" on it, as it WILL go c-rack-- really quickly !!
Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by paradisecs on Nov 26, 2018 18:11:31 GMT
Thanks Ron. I'll grab an easy replacement for now. I'm surprised that the newer ballasts present more RF interference than the old ones but I suppose they would make a good antennae.
Stephen
|
|
edison
Junior Member
Posts: 59
|
Post by edison on Aug 21, 2021 0:52:12 GMT
Hi all I have a flickering flourecent lamp that lights up the title board on a M100C. This is starting to flicker. If I reach in and give it a small twist and re seat it it goes away. However, they have all gone out at once the whole jukebox light system, only to flicker back on.
Ballast is not the original. I believe my dad put it in in the early 80s. Is it a starter?
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Aug 21, 2021 13:00:45 GMT
Hi Edison, Your problem could be the socket the AC cap is inserted into ( on the WSR-5), the AC cap itself, the starter socket-- the starter, the lamp sockets, the lamp pins, the lamp itself, or, the ballast-- If I were you, I would first try some Deoxit-5 on a "Q-tip" used on the items in that list, as per the instructions on the can-- Ron Rich
EDIT: also, the "connections" "your Father" made years ago---
|
|
