|
|
Post by keving on Nov 28, 2018 12:07:40 GMT
Trying to revive a Sunstar that was purchased through a vendor liquidation sale.
-Mechanism stuck on far left of track
-While spinning motor coupling, but won't budge from its position (I am able to turn the motor by hand)
-Checked motor fuse and DCC fuses - not blown
-Service switches will not work
-Selection is entered with a click sound from DCC
-Voltage from motor capacitor is as follows: .044, .044 & .021 volts
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Nov 28, 2018 13:23:37 GMT
Hi Keving,
Gotz the service manual package ? It has a motor power schematic in it--If not get it (see stickies in FAQ's section--above)-- motor on most (including the MicroLog models), Seeburgs, is NOT fused. AC is supplied thru the scan control contacts, thru the Autospeed , or dummy plug, to the Reversing Switch, to the motor--Measure voltage at the reversing switch-- if not there, go back thru the circuit. I have no idea what the readings you posted mean ? Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by keving on Nov 29, 2018 12:33:53 GMT
Thanks Ron. I purchased your microlog book 2 weeks ago.
Anyways - i tried to get a voltage reading at the paddle reversing switch and I am getting no voltage there.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Nov 29, 2018 14:35:49 GMT
Keving,
OK--then you need to go to the schematic, in the Service Manual and trace the power circuit circuit as I described above-- Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by keving on Dec 20, 2018 12:25:25 GMT
Ok, got the mech working again and playing. However about an hour into playing, the slow blow main fuse will pop. The last occurence was right when the reversing switch was making its spark/transition. I have blown 2 fuses already and it appears to happen during mech scanning or the reversing switch transition.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Dec 20, 2018 17:06:59 GMT
Hi Keving,
OK--I answered this in the FAQ's section as a "sticky", in the Seeburg section- as I am too lazy to re-write this answer over and over-
One thing, on your phono--since you did not follow our posting "rules", I know not what country you are in and can not advise you as to what size main fuse to install for now--so, just make sure it's the correct one Seeburg calls for, or lower ! Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by keving on Dec 20, 2018 17:50:15 GMT
Hi Ron, Sorry, I didn't find what I was looking for in the FAQ. I am in the USA - VA to be exact (not sure if you remember sending me your book a few weeks back  ). Anyhow, I have made sure that the fuse is the correct one that Seeburg calls for 6.25 amp, 120 volt (although both fuses were 125 volt). However upon observation of the reversing swith is it seems to make a larger pop/spark when triggered compared to my other 70s Seeburgs. Just baffled as to why 2 fuses would blow out with only about 1 hour of playtime lasting before fuse popping. |
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Dec 20, 2018 20:01:47 GMT
Hi Keving, Nope I gotta great, but not too long memory--I and you were lucky in that I remembered to mail it to you--thanks for purchasing it ! Cant understand why you can't find that post, as it is the "top one" now--here it is-again jukeboxaddicts.proboards.com/board/11/frequently-asked-faqThe reason it's blowing that fuse ( which BTW, should be reduced to a 5 a SB if possible) is that switch either has burned/pitted, or poorly adjusted contacts. See the contact cleaning info in FAQ's ! Ron Rich |
|
|
|
Post by keving on Dec 30, 2018 1:18:50 GMT
Hi Ron,
I have cleaned the contacts using coarse paper with contact cleaner before any of this happened. Is it ok to use a fine grit sandpaper? Or does it need adjusting?
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Dec 30, 2018 14:58:20 GMT
Keving,
See the FAQ's section, here, on cleaning contacts-- IMHO, you may have done some damage--
Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by keving on Jan 11, 2019 17:16:30 GMT
Ron,
Great news. After the burnishing tool was inefective and still blowing a fuse. I went ahead and replaced the reversing switch from my parts box and its working great now!
One small question - how do i stop the mech from "creaking" as it goes past a certain part of selections? I have tried oiling the gear track but no luck...
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Jan 11, 2019 17:58:52 GMT
Keving,
Glad it's now working --"creaking" ?? Where is this noise coming from ? The "gear track" is not a point that should be oiled ! See the Lube Chart Seeburg provided or see my Seeburg Mechanism Guide. Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Jan 11, 2019 20:59:52 GMT
Keving,
Glad it's now working --"creaking" ?? Where is this noise coming from ? The "gear track" is not a point that should be oiled ! See the Lube Chart Seeburg provided or see my Seeburg Mechanism Guide. Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by e093116 on Jan 13, 2019 16:26:21 GMT
Hi Kevin,
I've fixed a couple of creaks like you describe by cleaning the two rods that the popularity meter rides on.
Any dried goo on the rods can make "noise" when the sliders come in contact with the goo as the mech scans.
Bill
|
|
|
|
Post by keving on Jan 22, 2019 17:33:52 GMT
Thanks Ron for the heads up on the popularity meter rods.
One thing this Sunstar does is it'll play the first two songs at a slower speed (80% of what it should be) and by the time it gets to the third play - the speed is fine. I'm assuming something is going on with the motor?
|
|
). Anyhow, I have made sure that the fuse is the correct one that Seeburg calls for 6.25 amp, 120 volt (although both fuses were 125 volt). However upon observation of the reversing swith is it seems to make a larger pop/spark when triggered compared to my other 70s Seeburgs. Just baffled as to why 2 fuses would blow out with only about 1 hour of playtime lasting before fuse popping.