" Over center switches" (Reversing switch) adjustments

[Ron Rich]

Hi All,

Many jukes have "over center snap" type switches-- almost all of them are adjusted the same way !-They must be free of "pits/burrs" ! (see contact cleaning FAQ's)

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Here is the correct way to adjust a Seeburg "Reversing Switch". Note the stop limits -- See the drawing in your service manual. There are two "(up-side down{"V" shaped}), metal stops" in the center of the switch, that provide a stop  for the center paddle. They MUST be adjusted to stop "over-travel" beyond the point, needed (15/1000 inch), first --AND, evenly so they stop action together! Once correct, adjust each individual segment by moving the switch connecting, "brown fiber" lever ("bar"), (VERY CAREFULLY, as that bar can, and will break !), slowly, by hand, and watching each section open--they MUST all open at the same time AND close at the same time.  On a Seeburg Rev. switch, check the actuating "stops" the paddle hits are correctly adjusted, and the "rubber bumpers" are also present, good, and correctly adjusted (IF, the adjustable type)-see your service manual !! If a later model Seeburg, using the white nylon style read out contacts, be sure you use caution prior to working on the reversing switch as you can destroy the read out "fingers", that hold the contacts (re-adjust the stops for the read outs, if adjustment were changed on the reversing switch stops/rubber bumpers !).  NOTE: "Adjustment" MUST be accomplished by bending the "bracer blade" for each contact leaf- Contact leaves MUST be biased against the bracer blade at all times, when closed !! NEVER attempt to "adjust" any "center blade", unless they are no longer "hanging straight down". Ron Rich

[nyjb]

Ron,

I appreciate your having written a definitive description of the process of adjusting these switches.  I have a few clarifying questions, as I have a set that continue to spark after many efforts (and attention to the service manual, your statement here and in your mech book).

1.) The mech shouldn't touch the rubber bumpers when it reverses, should it?  (These are non-adjustable.)  About how far should the transfer arm apparatus be from the bumpers when the mech reverses?

2.) what tool do you use when biasing?  I have a contact adjuster, but it's too tight a space to use on the bracer blades without moving the leafs.

3.) is there any particular type of burnishing tool appropriate for the contacts?

4.) on the inverted V arms: exactly where is the "overtravel" you refer to?  Is it in the contact blades themselves or on the paddle when it meets the inverted V?  If it's on the V, does "just after the switch is flipped" mean that one wants the V to be as narrow as possible while still allowing the paddle to "throw" the switches?

5.) is there any circumstance under which one should bias or adjust the paddle itself?

Thanks,

Terry

[nyjb]

I just revisited the Phonoland entry in FAQ, so i saw the duckbill pliers suggestion. 

It also raises the possibility that the contacts are worn that they cannot hold the current, and thus cannot be salvaged, which would be a disappointment.

Even if a fire is unlikely, I'd still like to be able to adjust the reversing switches properly.  Any thoughts on my 5 questions?

[Ron Rich]

Hi Terry,
Some how we sorta got off topic here--  (OT posts were deleted)
Answers ( to the best of my knowledge)--
1. Mech should "touch" rubber bumpers at the time the rev switch is actuated-- bumper should stop mech in it's tracks, prior to putting any more pressure on the rev switch actuator. This goes for all models.
2. & 3. See the "contact point posts" in FAQ's
4. Contact blades--Inverted "V" is a "hard stop" and yes--as narrow as possible.
5. I have done so but very rarely, when paddle blades themselves are -WAY- off center--very dangerous, as they break easily when bent.
HTH,
Ron Rich

[nyjb]

That helps a lot, Ron. Not as dramatic as a burning house.