My First Juke Box!

[Michael from Indiana]

Ive been looking for some time and I think I may have found my first box. I have a few questions though that I want to ask some experts. Here is what I found:



1963 Rock-Ola Capri 404s

Perfect working order

Cosmetically very nice with only normal wear and tear (slight chrome wear, etc)

Fully loaded with records

No broken parts

$575 (picked up)



Here are my questions:

Is $575 a reasonable price for this box (as I described it)?

What is the difference (if any) between the 404 and 404s?

Were 63 and 64 the only two years for the Capri?

If only produced for a few years am I going to have a hard time finding parts?

Is this a worthwhile box for a new hobbyist with good mechanical and electronic backgrounds?



Thanks in advance!

[Ron Rich]

Most of what you ask is subjective--
"Perfect working order" is in the sellers mind-- ask when, and with what, was the last time it was "Lubricated" ? If not done correctly, with the correct products, expect problems after you transport it--BTW, check our FAQ's-- BEFORE -- you transport it !!!
"Records" add little value--are they the records you would go to a store, and pay for ??
404 S I would guess either stood for the (up-top) speakers, or "Stereo" ?
Like most models, the 404/404-s, was only made one year--parts--cosmetic probably yes--mechanical--probably no.
Price--I would say is fair, and --once again IMHO, worthwhile---
Ron Rich

[Michael from Indiana]

Thanks very much Ron! I'm very happy to have found this forum!

The 'Perfect working order' comment was solely my description of what I saw. More accurately, 'Everything (mechanical and electronic) seemed to function and sound great'. The seller told me that he has owned the box for about 4 years and never had a problem with it. Is he being honest? I cannot say but I may well find out. He has only ever had this one unit, is not a collector, and used the system infrequently. It was stored in his 'man-cave' which is a restored restaurant he owns. Although I did not ask, and for the previously stated reasons, I am confident that it is unlikely that the box received regular maintenance and lubrication over at least the 4 years he owned it. The records are absolutely what I would listen to and will likely only be replaced if/when they show extended wear.

I had a look at the FAQs as suggested. Thank you very much for the advice! Is there a recommended procedure for inspecting, cleaning, lubricating a box where the history is not known or where regular maintenance was not performed. I'm confident that I can determine the best course when I have the service manual but your experience and recommendations are certainly valued. I will be ordering the service manuals from 'always jukin'. Do you know if those are physical manuals or downloadable PDFs?

Thanks again for the advice and the forum!

[Ron Rich]

You did not l@k very hard at the FAQ's--Lubrication is one of them !
I have no idea what any "supplier" is currently offering--ask them --
Ron Rich

[Michael from Indiana]

Oh, I absolutely DID read the Lubrication FAQ which was very helpful in identifying what type of lubricants to use (and NOT to use) as well as how to remove old/incorrect/gunky lubricants. My question regarding lubrication and inspection related more to what needed to be inspected and lubricated than as to how. I was looking for suggestions as to what specific components or mechanisms may require special attention or are more prone to failure if not properly maintained. Perhaps the information I'm looking for will be found in the Service Manual? Thanks for trying though!

Thanks again!

I'm very much looking forward to getting my first box!

[Ron Rich]

OK--There is a RockOla lube chart around, somewhere-- if you find it. please post it here--Ask you manual supplier if it's included ?? But the main thing is the gripper itself--read the posted sticky on it above. Also, seldom mentioned is the "side A/B toggle", that rides INSIDE the cam-- It MUST be kept greased, or it will bind. If no one has added anything that combines with the graphite grease used by RockOla, a drop or two of 20 wt. will combine well with the old grease. Other wise it must all be removed, cleaned, and replaced--especially at the "cross-over point". HTH Ron Rich

[Michael from Indiana]

Thanks Ron! I downloaded the Service Manual and there is a lube chart included. Ill upload it to the forum shortly. I'm guessing I upload it in this (Rock-Ola) forum?
I've arranged for pickup tomorrow.

Question: I read some of the threads on transport and remember reading that you should not lock down the chassis (at least) on the Seeburgs without shims. Does this also apply to the Rock-Olas? I ask because the manual specifically requires them to be locked for transport. I just want to confirm.

As recommended in the FAQ Ill be taking wire ties and tape with me to secure what should be secured. Any additional tips for getting it the 100 miles to home in the back of a 5x8 covered u-haul trailer would be appreciated.

I also stopped by my local Ace while at lunch and grabbed a bottle of 3-in-1 Motor Lube I don't have at home. ;-) Ill add it to the 20 bazillion types of lubes I already have for gunsmithing.

[Ron Rich]

Hi Michael,
On RockOlas--I think they also shimmed that carriage assembly--the reason for the shims, on Seeburgs, is so you don't compress the springs beyond their limits--
Blankets !! & straps to secure it inside the trailer.
ACE IZ "da place " !
Ron Rich

[Michael from Indiana]

Thanks Ron! I'm absolutely stoked to bring her home! I've prepared my test/transport toolkit which consists of:

change (nickels, dimes, quarters)
zip ties
plastic (duct) tape
saran (packing) wrap
closed cell styrofoam blocks
1/4" shims
ratchet straps
nylon rope
shipping blankets
styro box for records
toolbox: razor knife, screwdrivers, sockets, wrenches
hand truck
end dolly

That about cover it? 

[Michael from Indiana]

Being bored and quite anal-retentive (from my days as an aircraft mechanic) I also put together an inspection/packing checklist.
Id be most grateful to know your thoughts. Of course, it's a work in progress and i'm sure I'll update it as I pickup more boxes.

INSPECTION CHECKLIST

CABINET (OUTSIDE)
power cord
box (enclosure)
trim
glass
labels & decals
strips
buttons
coin reject
grills
lock (key?)
door hinges
castors

CABINET (INSIDE)
box (enclosure)
title strip carriers (check function)
bezels

ELECTRICAL
amplifier:
case
wiring
tubes
fuses
visible caps

power supply:
case
wiring
tubes
fuses
visible caps

electronics controller:
case
wiring
tubes
fuses
visible caps

MECHANICAL:
gears
magazine
gripper
turntable
tonearm
wiring

FUNCTIONAL TESTS
lights
test selector (oper/off/scan)
test scan mode for two revolutions
coin accepter works (try quarters, dimes, nickels)
drop coin(s)
test each selector button (a-reset-b-reset-1-reset, etc)
select a record
watch gripper & turntable function

<while playing> (listen for buzz or hum and pots for static)
all speakers working
bass
treble
volume
close cabinet & listen
watch gripper & turntable return record to magazine

test two more selections (a & b side of same record)

SHIPPING PREP
remove all records
secure power cord
lock down chassis
secure or remove turntable
secure or remove tone arm using CC foam
ziptie or tape anything that might move
saran wrap cabinet
cover with shipping blankets
secure to trailer

[Ron Rich]

I think you've got it covered--remove-don't "secure" the turn table (Just lifts up !) Ron Rich

[Michael from Indiana]

Well, we got her home tonight and setup without incident! Here is a review of what we found on inspection:

The Box was very close to described (see post above) with a few exceptions:

1) There is no coin mech.  The seller told me a guy came in and set it up to play without coins and 'must have' removed it when he did. I'll be starting a separate post in this forum to ask for thoughts as to what he may have changed to get it to free-play and if I should be concerned about it.

2) There is a small cigarette (or perhaps something else from the 70's)   burn on the '0' selector button. It did burn completely through the plastic and left about an 1/8" hole. Interestingly, it doesn't really detract from the overall appearance of the selector buttons.
  Kinda gives the box some extra character!

3) There is a key which opens the front panel but no key for the coin removal door. Try as I might I could not get the front panel key to open both and I didn't dare break that key.

4) The magazine motor drags ever so slightly at a specific point during a cycle. The grease on the gears (and every other gear I checked) is more like dried toothpaste. Being pretty sure its just from lack of oil/grease I'm gonna re-read the FAQs about lubrication and come up with an approach to getting that gunk outta there.

Other than the '0' selector button there appears to be NOTHING broken or damaged on the box. Chrome is flaking off and there are a few rubs on the wooden cabinet but all-in-all I'm VERY happy about the $650 I figure I spent retrieving the box.

I'm including some pictures of the securing process. I locked down the chassis using wood shims (per the moving FAQ found here) and used closed-cell semi-rigid foam and wire ties to secure the tonearm. More images of the box after setup and lubricating is complete.

Thanks Ron for a great Forum! I know I would not have been as successful at retrieving this box without your knowledge and assistance!

...and so it begins!

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