ScotK
Full Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by ScotK on Dec 19, 2019 2:00:33 GMT
If you want my free for shipping speakers, I can dig them out and post pics
You could also try parts wanted
I appreciate the offer Scott, but how would I mount them? One of the reasons I was actually considering spending the money to rebuild the speakers is that they would likely sound much better, but also because I didn't know how to mount them. I could fabricate something myself, I know how, but I don't have the tooling required. I know it's going to be inside the consolette but I didn't want to just jury-rig something ugly. |
|
sooner
Full Member
Oklahoma
Posts: 117
|
Post by sooner on Dec 19, 2019 3:04:37 GMT
One of the reasons I was actually considering spending the money to rebuild the speakers is that they would likely sound much better, I wouldn't count on them sounding any better. Unless the cone is damaged a speaker's sound quality doesn't degrade with use. Plus they're still small speakers inside a metal box. I recently received an extra speaker with a box I got off eBay. It looked very similar one of the speakers in the box but didn't have the square housing around the magnet. That makes me think it might be possible to remove the housing from a bad speaker and use on a replacement. |
|
|
|
Post by spetersen on Dec 19, 2019 3:13:52 GMT
The rectangular part of the speaker is part of the magnet, and spot welded to the frame, it could not be practically mounted to another speaker.
The speakers I have would need some kind of bracket made to mount them, they are modern, they sound fine, like the Seeburg ones they could replace.
|
|
sooner
Full Member
Oklahoma
Posts: 117
|
Post by sooner on Dec 19, 2019 9:52:15 GMT
The rectangular part of the speaker is part of the magnet, and spot welded to the frame, it could not be practically mounted to another speaker. The speakers I have would need some kind of bracket made to mount them, they are modern, they sound fine, like the Seeburg ones they could replace. I see the spot weld now. Looks the u-shaped part could be separated from the rest of the speaker with a little leverage. I would try either using that or making a custom bracket before I spent $120 rebuilding the speakers. |
|
|
|
Post by spetersen on Dec 19, 2019 12:30:00 GMT
I have access to a shop, so a custom bracket is the way I would go, and keep the originals for rebuild in case things don't work out.
|
|
ScotK
Full Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by ScotK on Dec 19, 2019 12:44:35 GMT
I contacted another guy yesterday that I found in the FAQ, he didn't respond until later via email. He says he has speakers so I'll probably get a set from him.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Dec 19, 2019 14:30:02 GMT
Hi Guyz,
Attsa the whole point off the FAQ's section ! I am about 99% sure, more than one supplier listed there, has a pair for sale ! Ron Rich
|
|
ScotK
Full Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by ScotK on Dec 19, 2019 14:43:07 GMT
Hi Ron,
Yep, spoke to Rick at jukeboxrepairman.com, said he knew you. Talked for a while about my design, he really liked that the coin drops would work and that it would have bluetooth out to the stereo for better sound. He thought I should do some for sale, even offered advice on some options I could offer for them.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Dec 19, 2019 15:44:39 GMT
Hi Scott,
Yep--he's a nice guy !! Ron Rich
|
|
ScotK
Full Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by ScotK on Dec 19, 2019 16:15:06 GMT
When I wrote that, I thought the HVG and the photodiode ground were tied together, Your second schematic should work, except HVG needs to go to ground instead of 5v and HV needs to go to 5v The speakers work fine with the amp I'm using, maybe test the speakers with a 9v battery , just a quick brushing of the wires across the battery should make noise. The 200 ohm resistor is to reduce noise.
I might try the 200 ohm resistor if I need to cleanup the signal a bit, but shouldn't that go from the ground on the opto to the chassis? In my second drawing you show it from +5v to the opto ground. |
|
|
|
Post by spetersen on Dec 19, 2019 22:02:15 GMT
It goes across the photo diode to reduce noise, it requires some current to light the diode this way, and draw a little more current while the wiper grounds the diode.
|
|
|
|
Post by spetersen on Dec 24, 2019 13:13:40 GMT
Having any luck with the pulse train, and program?
|
|
ScotK
Full Member
Posts: 113
|
Post by ScotK on Dec 28, 2019 15:10:49 GMT
Had to take a break for the holiday. I did have the pulse reader working but it’s getting too much chatter to get a clean signal. I’ll order that 200 ohm resistor and get it in place and see what happens. Won’t be able to do that for a few days yet.
|
|
|
|
Post by spetersen on Dec 28, 2019 16:11:03 GMT
I had to thoroughly clean the contacts and arm to get a great signal.
|
|
doorkey
New Member
New Dad
Posts: 10
|
Post by doorkey on Jan 7, 2020 0:55:17 GMT
Nice thread! On the topic of speakers. I have searched far and wide and settled on these babies here: www.parts-express.com/tang-band-t2-2136sa-full-range-speaker-module-2-3-4-x-2-3-4--264-938A test of the SMALLER ones can be seen here, the video should load queued up to just before the song has a little bass drop: youtu.be/CuGgTw2xnnE?t=636Also, I believe with cutting off the feet that the Tang Band T1 - 2121SD will fit as well and would be my second choice. The Tang Band T2-2136SA are what's in the mail though, I'll just mockup a 3D Printed bracket for them when I can get my calipers on them. |
|
