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Post by jukenorman on Jan 29, 2021 16:24:13 GMT
Hi Rob,
Yes I think you would need to remove the search unit just to make access easier - but don't worry about the search unit, it's dead easy to set up again. Position A1 is marked on the pinwheel, so it's merely a case of making selection A1, locking the sprag relay and moving the pin pusher arm to A1 (described in the manual). However if you were really lazy, you could lock the sprag relay down before you remove the search unit and in theory, you wouldn't need to make any adjustment after you put it back. I've never tried that though, I just thought of it now!
Norman.
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Post by rob1948 on Jan 29, 2021 16:36:00 GMT
Thank you Norman and I am going to be lazy.
Rob
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Post by rob1948 on Feb 2, 2021 7:18:13 GMT
Hi Norman,
Thought I would let you know that I have finally managed to 'unfreeze' my JB's gripper arm assembly with out having to take it out as I was planning to do. I have continually sprayed the unit with Q10 PENETRATING OIL SPRAY and then with no success I decided to heat up the two trunnion ends CAREFULLY using a blow touch, removed the heat, sprayed once more with Q10 PENETRATING OIL SPRAY and 'Bob's your uncle' the gripper arm was 'unfrozen'. I can now continue with my electrical trouble shooting.
Thanks Rob
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Post by Ron Rich on Feb 2, 2021 14:58:31 GMT
Rob,
Word of advice: Oil that gripper, a lot, or it WILL, "re-stick", itself ! Ron Rich
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Post by rob1948 on Feb 2, 2021 16:58:19 GMT
Hi Ron,
Thanks for that, I will certainly oil the gripper very well. Don't want it 'freezing up' again. Rob
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Post by rob1948 on Feb 8, 2021 10:40:45 GMT
Hi Ron and Norman, 'Camshaft Switches'. In the transfer motor rest position, and with the transfer motor crank and link in a straight line, in what position must the cam switches 'rocker plate' be ? Must the tone arm cam pin be in a position pushing the 'rocker plate' lever forward to a position activating the 5 cam switches ? Then in the playing position does the tone arm cam pin push the 'rocker plate' lever forward to a position activating cam switch no 6 ? Please help. Thanks Rob.
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Post by jukenorman on Feb 8, 2021 16:10:25 GMT
Yes, Rob! Both positions are shown in the manual on pages RCS-22 and 23 and also provides instruction on how to adjust the switches, switch 6 in the play position and switches 1 to 5 in the rest position.
Norman.
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Post by rob1948 on Feb 9, 2021 8:26:03 GMT
Hi Norman, Thanks for your reply and I have studied page 22 & 23, but I need the following clarification please; In the 'REST POSITION' with the crank and link in a straight line the tone arm cam pushes the cam switches rocker plate HARD down fully activating the 5 cam switches. There is no play in the rocker plate. Is it in this position that I now back out the adjusting screws and reset the cam switches as per the manual ? What I can't understand is that I have not moved the gripper arm assembly or the transfer motor gearbox. I only disconnected the link arm to unfreeze the gripper assembly. So after unfreezing the assembly I reconnected the link in a straight line with the crank arm and therefore there should be no need to reset the cam switches. The position they are in should be correct(HARD DOWN).
If this position is correct then cam switch no 2 should be closed, and then pulling back the mechanical toggle switch the record magazine should rotate. It does not which tells me I have a faulty no 2 cam switch ?
Thanks Rob
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Post by jukenorman on Feb 9, 2021 10:21:09 GMT
Hi Rob,
Yes in the rest position the plate will be pretty much hard down against the switches. Are the gripper jaws fully open? You are correct, if you only removed the link arm - in theory it should go back without requiring further adjustment. And yes CS2 should be made and allow the magazine motor to run when you operate the scan switch - are you getting DC voltage at CS2 with the scan switch made?
Norman.
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Post by rob1948 on Feb 9, 2021 13:22:56 GMT
Thanks for your response Norman. Will check the DC voltage at CS2.
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Post by rob1948 on Feb 9, 2021 16:11:15 GMT
Hi Norman,
Some progress. The crank and link were not 100% in line. I have rotated the crank to get them 100% in line and the cam switch rocker is now 'HARD' down. The magazine turns, the gripper assembly picks up the record and places it on the TT and the record plays (alas no sound but I don't think this is going to be a major trouble shoot) and it is then returned to the magazine. Progress, progress progress. As a matter of interest I have also mistakenly install only 25 records in the magazine all next to each other which as a result has put the magazine out of balance and placed unnecessary load on the magazine motor. I must install the required 100 records to balance the magazine, or evenly space the 25 until I have finished trouble shooting.
Thanks Rob
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Post by jukenorman on Feb 9, 2021 17:18:37 GMT
The amp muting relay is operated by CS6 opening. CS6 closing (it's a changeover switch) operates the reset solenoid - is the pin being cancelled? If the pin is cancelling, no sound is unlikely to be a muting relay problem. And I'm just thinking if the pin isn't being cancelled, it would just play the same record again because of the stopping switch still being made? You're definitely getting there though!
Norman.
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Post by rob1948 on Feb 20, 2021 18:28:11 GMT
Hi Norman,
I have ordered a can of DEOXIT 5 spray from America (San Diego)and should arrive sometime mid March. Until then I am going to work on getting some sound. I think I have a muting relay problem which is in the amplifier. But the Conti I have is a stereo with valve amplifiers,R-2777 and R-2020A.I have a number of vacuum tubes that do not light up and this could also be the reason for no sound ? Should I source replacement tubes (SYLVANIA) or find a later model solid state amp to replace the valve amps, or install a new state of the art Valve amplifier if this an option although could be pricey ? First prize is to keep the JB original ? Any comments please. Thanks Rob
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Post by Ron Rich on Feb 20, 2021 18:59:52 GMT
Hi Rob,
A Conti, would only have had a "valve" (tube) type amp. If more then the rectifier tube remain unlit, I would suspect that you should bench test the amp and rebuild it. As for installing another style amp in it, it can be done, but one needs to consider the need for a mute circuit. I myself, would just prefer to re-build the one that is original. BTW-- the brand of valves, makes little to zero difference -- get which ever brand you find. Ron Rich
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Post by jukenorman on Feb 20, 2021 20:24:57 GMT
Hi Rob,
I'm with Ron, I think you should try to save your original amp if at all possible. Even if you had to send it out to someone, it should work out cheaper than a replacement unless it needed real major surgery. These AMi amps are not quite like normal amps, one channel inputs out of phase - you would have to factor that in if you want the "stereo-round" sound from a replacement.
Norman.
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