Wurlitzer 2810 from the cript...

[Ron Rich]

Hi Tom,
Ainna whut you rote afore-- you said it won't "PLAY IT", not won't select it ! The symptoms you now describe would lead me to guess a keyboard "short"---or a stuck (in) #1 coil-- what happens when you play higher numbers ?  Ron Rich

[TCW]

It would do the same with all number and letter sets.

I re-cleaned the solenoids, re-gaped the contacts and re-cleaned the mechanical interlocks in the selection center. I applied some more Deoxit to the selector contacts and now it works flawlessly.

I found another problem though. While I had this apart I got my Top hits Gold bar to select music when I press it when its lit. Seeing that my accumulated individual plays (popularity) had been reset it started played selections that were right next to each other. The first song played normally, the speed solenoid energized. The next was normal but every other song played slow. For the time being I just unplugged the solenoid but what would cause this to happen?

[Ron Rich]

Hi Tom,
Glad you got it-- I would never use "Deoxit" in a keyboard ! As for the speed-- is there a switch that's being triggered ? I have had no experience with that circuit, but have noticed that the #12 lamp has often been removed, thus un-ableing that speed change-- Ron Rich

[TCW]

Ron,

As far as the keyboard I went back and sprayed it clean with 90% alcohol to get the "Deoxit" residue off.

I just started running through this and was called away. But before being called I did follow the wires as far as the Transfer Switch on the one side of the Speed Control Solenoid and Pin 5 of the reverse Switch Plug on the other. The transfer switch was fully engaged by the actuator arm that was pressed hard against it. The cam didn't seem to be in position to be pushing against the roller of the of the actuator arm assembly. So I pushed against it and it seemed stiff but gave way. It then moved freely at that point. The transfer switch would not snap back as it should on its own. So I will need to readjust it. It must have had some harsh interaction with the actuator arm assembly. I am uncertain if this was the reason for my trouble with the Speed Control Solenoid but it is part of its circuit. Oh, the print does not show a capacitor in parallel with the interlock solenoid.

I am going to pay closer attention to what they are calling the Cam Lever Switch. Parts of the contact are physically in two locations. I have a hunch this switch could be part of my trouble if it is not just the Transfer Switch problem. 

[Ron Rich]

Tom,
Didja OIL the switch actuators at their pivot, and roller points ? Ron Rich

[TCW]

Yes I did but I may have missed the pivot point of the actuator arm so I applied two drops of light oil.

[TCW]

Ron,

Ok, I believe I committed a Nube mistake. The cam motor has a gear on the end of it that seemed to be for enabling advancing through each sequence manually. I imagined it to be like the motors on a Rock-Ola, so I thought perfect I can watch this thing go through the motions and possibly find where some adjustments are needed. It did do just that and just observed as it went trough the motions. When I was done, I powered it up and the cam motor looked as though it was moving slowly with a hum. I shut it off and tried to see what was causing the unexpected resistance. It will move manually as before so I hit the power switch and after about 3 seconds the 4 amp slow blow gave up its ghost.

So how do I get this back to a good position in sequence to try this again? I don't notice any obstructions. It moves the carousel at a snails pace, like literally that slow. 

Tom

[TCW]

Ron,

I unloaded the motor by removing it but it still acts as though its over loaded. The shaft moves freely as I spin it by hand. It seems as though its either a bad motor winding, transformer winding or both. I cant seem to find any information about this motor other than name and part number, Motor & Pinion Assy., 121998. The same with Transformers.

Based on the voltage readings I get at the motor plug, I found both 32VAC & 32VDC, its could be one of those voltages maybe. Any ideas on Motor or Transformer data? - Tom

Here is the motor wire identification and my readings.

Color	Wire Number	Pin Number
Grey	83	1
White	84	2
Black	40	4
Color	to Ground	Motor Socket Voltage to Ground
Grey		.76 VAC to Gnd, 32.7 VDC to Gnd
White		15.66 VAC to Gnd, 31.84 VDC to Gnd.
Black		27.75 VAC to Gnd, 1.7 mVDC to Gnd.
Color	to Color	Socket Voltage Readings
Black	White	32VAC & 32VDC
Black	Grey	32VAC & 32VDC
White	Grey	3.5 VAC & 12.7 mVDC
Color	to Color	Motor Ohm Readings
Black	White	2.1 Ohms
Black	Grey	4.1 Ohms
White	Grey	2.1 Ohms

[Ron Rich]

Tom,
Something's not correct-- you can not have both AC & DC on the same line ?? L@k at the schematic-- what powers that motor ? Ron Rich

[TCW]

I used two meters and have the same results. I also found the same with my scope.

The complex wave form below is a standard AC sine wave that is offset by a DC value above the 0 volt axis. In my case the 32VAC,  is apparently the offset by 30VDC above the 0 volt axis. This could be caused by half wave rectification or some significant noise. I would post the images but casimages.com is not working for me at the moment. My manual is an original and it has proved difficult to read. I have ordered a new modern reprint so I will have to wait and see. If anyone happens to know which transformer is the source of power for the motor that would speed things up to be sure. Also to know what power is supplied by the transformer may help to clear a few things up. - Tom

[TCW]

My new manual hasn't arrived yet but by photographing my old original and then massaging the photo in photoshop I am getting somewhere. It appears that Black Wire 40, Pin 4 is powered by the 24v Phono portion of a transformer (Which one?). It looks as though, through the Play Switch, the same 24v could be applied to the White Wire, #84, Pin #2.

I have been out sick for a week. I hope to be 100% by tomorrow. Just a standard virus but the turnaround after 60 sure is tougher. 

I purchased a new manual that arrived damaged. So I'm retuning and then will order another one per directions from seller, jukebox-arcade. 

[TCW]

Sept 9, 2021 17:37:07 GMT TCW said:

Ron,

I unloaded the motor by removing it but it still acts as though its over loaded. The shaft moves freely as I spin it by hand. It seems as though its either a bad motor winding, transformer winding or both. I cant seem to find any information about this motor other than name and part number, Motor & Pinion Assy., 121998. The same with Transformers.

I am now just getting back to this. There was an old cable and plug laying down in the lowest level of the Selector Assembly that extended into the carriage switch area. I thought it was just part of the jukebox wiring. With some effort I relieved it from the mech and all overload issues have left with it. Weird!

[Ron Rich]

Morning Tom,
Are you awake ?? If so, READ the sticky, which pre-answered this question ! Ron Rich