|
|
Post by vipertblck on Oct 27, 2018 18:40:39 GMT
I took a piece of welding rod and put it in wwhere the brass plug should be in the solenoid bracket. obviously it touched the plunger. I flip the switch and clearly the plunger is slapping the welding rod I inserted, if I apply pressure to not allow the rod to move (replicating the brass plug that should be in the solenoid bracket), it just stops the solenoid from allowing the plunger to fire in and out, and basically would burn it up as it cannot operate. I didn't do this, but it started to slow the "firing action" down and make the solenoid work and hum more.
|
|
|
|
Post by vipertblck on Oct 27, 2018 18:59:35 GMT
discovered that if you push and hold a selection button (number or letter), it stops the machine gunning.....useful information?!
kevin
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Oct 27, 2018 19:02:14 GMT
Kevin,
Yep--itz missing ! Sure you don't wanna send it to me ??
The "Detent coil" is the one on "top" of the playing head mechanism--
Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Oct 27, 2018 19:09:56 GMT
Kevin,
The brass must be inserted so as to contact the plunger TIP only -- It must be stationary ("flattened") on each end, so it fits tightly--
As for holding the button down, did you check the timing relay contacts for "pitts" -- Check the delay cap across the timing relay coil, adjust the cancel coil per the manual. Check the "hold" contacts in the TES. ( check/clean all contacts, as per above in our FAQ's section) Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by vipertblck on Oct 27, 2018 19:20:56 GMT
time to get going for the day. got further along than we were though I think. today I've learned and discovered the following.
1)brass plug in cancel solenoid bracket is missing
2)holding a letter or number allows the machine gunning to stop.
3)while holding a button-it sometimes stops scanning and picks up a record, just touches the needle and make a noise from the speaker, and then takes needle off to insert record back and continue scanning.
4)holding a button it will scan twice and then stop and sit with no machine gunning, upon button release machine gunning starts and scanning begins. have NOT allowed box to scan twice to see if scanning stops as that's more machine gunning from the solenoid than I prefer to let it do.
ron,
the timing relay contact on y & z contacts I don't SEE any pits, but it might be better attempted viewed with a magnifying glass to be sure. not familiar what the delay cap is, can you give more detail? adjusting the cancel coil is a matter of adjusting the rear bracket that is missing the copper plug, correct?
I've taken the SPU1 home with me to dig into it as i'm given more info and can deal with it in a more timely fashion. see what we find and then come back out to the box hopefully sooner than later to try things out.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Oct 27, 2018 19:29:37 GMT
Kevin, Did you read the FAQ's here on "contacts "  NO--Both the "front", and "rear" brackets are in need of "adjustment"--see the Service manual ! Ron Rich |
|
|
|
Post by vipertblck on Oct 27, 2018 22:06:35 GMT
ron,
I've viewed the contacts care/cleaning page in the faq many times..it covers how contamination is often the culprit and not adjustment. contact points rarely need adjustment it mentions. goes over when to burnish and some cleaning procedures. few questions.
what type of "point file" can be used?
what is 15 ths wipe?
to my understanding filing is only necessary if there's issues with the points such as pitting, and burnishing MUST follow filing. after that, check the clearance described in the book and reset accordingly.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Oct 28, 2018 12:10:29 GMT
Hi Kevin,
Your understanding is good--15 ths ( thousandths, of an inch )is the distance one contact point pushes/moves an adjoining contact after closing--thus "wiping" it. Point files are available at most good auto stores--just a small fine file -- use it sparingly, or you 'll have no silver contact left ! Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by vipertblck on Oct 28, 2018 21:07:22 GMT
Ron,
You mentioned a few things yesterday to check that im unsure about or what they are. The detent coil on top of the playing head mechanism, the delay cap across the timing relay coil. First, detent coil on the playing head mechanism; I’m thinking inside the mechanism that plays the records, take the orange cover off and it’s in there somewhere? I’ve taken some photos of this for better explanation; the only thing about detent I saw in the book is p. 2462 explaining a detent switch adjustment.
The delay cap across the timing relay coil; going back to the SPU1 now for this. Are we looking for a delay capacitor? The only thing associated with the timing relay coil is the “coil” itself that I’m finding, and the book says it should be 400 ohms resistance, however that is to be checked…?
I’ve got the SPU1 here with me at home so I can first start by maybe posting some pictures of the rear cancel solenoid bracket and also start closely looking at the timing relay contacts “y & z” for any discrepiencies….then file/burnish if need be.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Oct 28, 2018 22:40:40 GMT
Kevin,
Do you have a service, and parts manual ?? If not get one--see our FAQ's section---Once you have them, please READ them-- It's frustrating to both of us, to attempt to help without you having a basic understanding of what you are doing. Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by vipertblck on Oct 29, 2018 1:03:35 GMT
ron,
only have the service manual stated earlier in this post; p/n 409296. will thumb through it again to see if I missed anything but don't recall seeing anything other than what was stated in my last post in regards to the detent coil or delay cap. I appreciate your offer of having me send you the SPU1 but I wanna try and get this on my own, can't be anything to serious as the only cause of failure was not being used. it's easy to pay someone and give them your problems, but I walk away from that not learning anything for future reference.
kevin
|
|
|
|
Post by vipertblck on Oct 29, 2018 3:16:53 GMT
one thing I just thought of. should the credit wheel rotate freely by hand, or should it be locked unless the solenoid moves? asking because if I try to rotate the credit wheel on the SPU1, it does not move, it is locked. if I push the plunger in the cancel solenoid a bit allowing the cam and shaft to rotate slightly, it moves (this could be adjusted by the position of the cancel solenoid. if I to go the CCU on my BL box, I can rotate the credit wheel by hand freely. wasn't sure if the SPU1 should be in the same condition or not.
|
|
|
|
Post by Ron Rich on Oct 29, 2018 3:44:00 GMT
Kevin,
The SPU and CCU are exactly the same thing--neither should rotate, till the "lock pawl" is released by the pulling of the cancel coil--
Ron Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by vipertblck on Oct 29, 2018 17:28:30 GMT
dug into the timing relay and one of the contacts has some "wear" or arcing, so i'm thinking it's best to start there and file/burnish it. yes i'll once again read through the FAQ section on contacts and follow it EXACTLY for the procedure, as it's my first time doing this to any contact. last night I followed my service manual (see manual p/n in prior posts) steps for adjustments in the SPU1. I read nothing about adjustment for the cancel coil front bracket, only the rear bracket. believe it said 1/32 over travel for the pawl with plunger fully seated in coil. this seems correct to me, but still leave me without the brass plug that should be there. anyway, going to try and clean up that contact tonight with a file/burnisher and see where we get. still looking for anything in my service manual relating to a detent coil or dealay cap..hopefully more to come
|
|
|
|
Post by vipertblck on Oct 30, 2018 1:13:02 GMT
ron,
the timing relay coil should be 400ohms according to the service manual; im getting about 389; is this sufficient? also as you responded in another post, one of the contacts on the timing relay (furthest one towards the outside, normally closed) has some "wear". filed it but can still see evidence of wear. didn't wanna file too much (better safe than sorry) and it was slightly "loose". tweaked the blade a bit so a .030/.032 feeler gauge could fit in there and I didn't get any movement. feeler gauges are pretty side though considering the space were dealing with in here, so i'm gonna grab a few pin gauges from work tomorrow as they're a more precise fit, and we'll adjust it to the 1/32" with that.
kevin
|
|
